Ipswich Town 2 Sunderland 1

August 23, 2026August 23, 2026 / martinpbrooks / Leave a comment

A little strangely perhaps, the 2026-27 football season seems to me to have been a long time coming. Obviously, I hope, I don’t mean that in the context of the whole of time, because everything has been a long time coming if that’s our measure, but just since the end of the 2025-26 football season. As a result, this means I am both looking forward to this afternoon’s fixture versus Sunderland and not looking forward to it. Being mostly human (apart from a bit of bovine tissue in a couple of heart valves), I have adapted quite easily to the football-free regime of June, July and most of August, and having done so I’m buggered if I can now be bothered to change back, but of course I will.

The last time Ipswich Town played Sunderland at Portman Road on the opening day of the season was seven years ago, a one-all draw courtesy of a late defensive error by captain and all round “man’s man” Luke Chambers. Less than a week later I was in hospital in an induced coma (see ‘mostly human’ above), so I will prefer to recall the time before that, in August 1981. Remarkably, I vaguely remember that match from forty-five years ago and how disappointed I was that Town hadn’t won, despite having come back twice from two goals down to draw 3-3. But I was young, Town were the UEFA Cup holders and after finishing university, life had barely hinted at trying to run off in directions I didn’t want it to. In August 1981 I was about to start work or at least search for a permanent job; now at last I am about to retire.

This morning is fraught with concerns about getting into Portman Road using the new mobile phone-based ticket system. Foreseeing queues, I arrange with Gary to meet him on the train that leaves a whole hour earlier than the one we usually catch and after an unusually late breakfast I am soon changing my mind about whether or not to take a jumper and a light coat because the wind is in the north and there could be showers. At the local railway station, I resume my acquaintance with the fellow Town supporter who lives down the road from me but who I otherwise never see. We talk of the currently unknowable prospects for the new season and it’s a conversation which gets more or less repeated when Gary joins us at the next station stop along with his nephew and his nephew’s wife. Our conversation rattles along with the train, and I almost forget to look for polar bears as we pass through Wherstead; I do however remember to look, just in time to disappointingly not spot a single one. I hope it’s not a portent of future disappointment.

Ipswich is glorious, sunny and busy when we get there, and with the exception of the man who lives down the road from me, whom I wish ‘bon match’ as I bid him farewell, we all head off up Princes Street towards the Arb, where weirdly people are once again queuing at the bar instead of swarming around it like people did in pubs back in 1981 and probably even in 2019. Gary gets the drinks in whilst I claim the only vacant table and chairs in the already busy beer garden. Time passes amidst shared tales of organising tickets online and passing oneself off as an away supporter. I learn that Gary’s nephew has a ‘dream car’ and so does his wife, which I find surprises me as I don’t, although I’d quite like an open-top bus.

Because Gary’s nephew and his nephew’s wife have to meet someone at the ground at 2pm they leave shortly after I get a second round of drinks comprising just a pint of Estrella for Gary and one of Mauldon’s Suffolk Pride for me (£10 something with Camra discount). Gary and I speculate as to when most people will leave for the match and by the time we finish doing so most people seem to have left. We question whether by leaving early we will not just join a queue and perhaps we should leave late to hopefully arrive after everyone else has gone into the stadium. But being cautious by nature we leave at about twenty past two.

At twenty-seven minutes to three I join a queue the back of which is within touching distance of Russell Road, which must be about 100 metres from the turnstiles. I am soon joined by Pat from Clacton who seems a bit puffed after walking from where the Clacton supporters’ bus is parked on Sir Alf Ramsey Way. Our queue is static, so we soon switch to one which is moving and looking ahead I see that there are minimal queues for the actual turnstiles, the delay is with everyone being checked for weapons, explosives and scrap metal. Fortunately, our queue seems to be leading to a couple of the more enlightened employees of Achilleus Security who are able to tell at a glance that whilst many of us are old enough to have been members of the Angry Brigade, the Baader Meinhoff gang, the Red Army Faction, Black September, the Weathermen, the Brigate Rosse, the Symbionese Liberation Army or even in a few cases the People’s Front of Judea and the Judean People’s Front (revisionist bastards), we are mostly only interested in football this afternoon, so just a cursory wave of their ‘wand’ and a smile is all that is needed to send us on our way towards the turnstiles. There is a blockage at my favoured turnstile 62 so I move to turnstile 60 and am amazed and impressed that the sorcery that is a football season ticket on a telephone (whoever heard of such a thing?) actually works. I run through the turnstile before it can change its mind, shouting “I’m in!” and waving my arms with excitement.

When I reach my seat next to Fiona and just behind ever-present Phil who never misses a game, and his son Elwood, it is four minutes to three. The man from Stowmarket (Paul) arrives soon afterwards and soon after that the excitable young stadium announcer, who now has the sort of haircut which suggests National Service might have been re-introduced, reads out the team and like a Frenchman at the Stade Marie-Marvingt in Le Mans or the Stade Felix Bolleart in Lens I bellow their surnames as they appear on the scoreboard.

The teams arrive amidst shooting balls of flame and the smell of sulphur affirming the Premier League’s deal with Satan, and once the roasted and badly singed seagulls have been collected up the game begins. It is Sunderland who get first go with the ball, which they try and aim mainly in the direction of the former Spiritualist church on Anglesea Road. Sunderland are sporting an un-necessary and rather boring looking change kit of all pink with black shoulders. The pink shirts look completely plain, but no doubt close-up it is possible to see that the fabric is woven with patterns depicting lumps of coal, ship rivets and Giro cheques to celebrate the north-east’s rich industrial heritage.

Ipswich Town are of course wearing our signature blue shirts and white shorts and within four minutes Leif Davis is blocking a shot from a big Dutch bloke called Brobbey, and Sunderland have the game’s first corner. But within sixty-seconds Town’s Enciso also has a shot blocked as it leaves his foot and Emersonn has a header comfortably saved by the diving Sunderland goalkeeper, whose name is Roefs. I need the action to slow down so that I can begin to get to grips with who is in the Town team. As I say to Fiona, it’s almost like coming to support a different club, with only four of last season’s players in today’s team.

I quickly decide I like that Town’s new team is mostly peopled with players from abroad, because if the Premier League has taught us anything it is that as a general rule Englishmen are not as good at football as South Americans, Africans and people from the Schengen Area, but at least we have our sovereignty, whatever that is. Sunderland it seems are having the majority of possession, possibly because they have not needed to sign a whole new team over the summer. I wonder to myself why Town’s Issa Diop appears to be wearing puttees and realise I have previously seen Sunderland’s Enzo Le Fee and Thomas Meunier playing in France for Lorient and Paris St Germain.

It’s the twenty-fourth minute and Enciso intercepts a poor pass, runs past the poor passer, runs easily past another bloke in pink and finally squares the ball well enough for Emersonn to be able to roll it into the empty goal and Town lead one-nil. Happiness ensues and Town’s first twenty-four minutes in the Premier League this season already seem better than the whole of the 2024/25 season in the Premier League. “Ipswich Town, Ipswich Town FC, the finest football team the world has ever seen” we all sing to the tune of The Wild Rover, as we collectively raid our folk memories.

Five minutes later and fortunately for Town one of the pinks heads the ball more or less straight at Town keeper Scherpen. “How many more games have we got left” asks Pat from Clacton anxiously. Five minutes later and Sunderland have another corner, but in the Sir Bobby Robson supporters chant “Ole, Ole, Ole” whilst they still feel able to do so. Six minutes later and Sunderland claim the season’s first yellow card at Portman Road for number five Ballard, which consequently makes me think of JG Ballard, his novel ‘High Rise’ and Ipswich’s Cumberland Towers. The bloke next to me is clearly hallucinating almost as much as I am as he then says to the bloke behind me “Imagine if we do get into Europe”. We must have inhaled something in the smoke from those balls of flame.

There are six minutes until half-time, and Sunderland have a free-kick following a foul by Issa Diop. Unexpectedly, a tall bloke in pink with bleached hair by the name Angulo steps up to curl the ball into the top left had corner of the Town goal just beyond the very outstretched figure of Scherpen, and the score is one all. To add to the disappointment, although celebrating the event as one might expect, the Sunderland supporters fail to break into a version of Brotherhood of Man’s 1977 number one record “Angelo”.

The now even first half trails off into the past with a Sunderland corner and an additional two-minutes, but the mood is still positive with Town having scored a goal and despite a bit less possession than Sunderland no evidence that the away team are more likely to score than the Town are. With the half-time whistle I remain where I am because Ray is still in hospital and his grandson Harrison and son Michael have moved seats.

The football returns at three minutes past four and most of the ensuing half suggests that another opening day draw might be the outcome as although Sunderland have the ball much of the time they don’t do very much with it and Town are tidy with Enciso playing a starring role and looking a better player than he did two years ago. Angulo is the second Sunderland player to be booked, for being obtuse perhaps and O’Nien the third; Sunderland are the first to make substitutions and Town win two corners before making substitutions of their own in the sixty-sixth minute.

Five minutes later, Enciso is sitting on the ground looking like he might have felt a twinge or an ache and he is replaced by Jack Clarke or as the excitable young stadium announcer calls him “Jack! Clarke!”. Town take a little while to adjust to the loss of Enciso and in the lull Pat from Clacton shares with us that today she is wearing a new pair of ‘Ipswich Town’ blue and white knickers. I check with her that they are definitely new, and not old, and ask if they’re comfortable. Apparently, they are. Pat goes on to say they’re sort of “silky” and I tell her I hope she doesn’t slide off her seat.

More substitutions follow for Town, with Abdoul Outtara and Eggy replacing Nunez and Daizen Maeda with less than fifteen minutes remaining, after another Town corner. The simmering noise of the crowd seems to ask if there is going to be a winning goal and helps erase memories of talk of Pat’s pants. The excitable young stadium announcer then tells that we are 26, 669 and after Sunderland take the game’s final useless corner I tell myself that there’s little prospect of another goal.

The final minute of normal time arrives and as thoughts turn to the train home, Town’s Sasa Lukic intercepts another loose Sunderland pass and sets off Jack! Clarke! to run at the Sunderland defence. With his characteristic style Clarke! drops a shoulder and then curls the ball into the far side of the goal net with a low shot. Town are winning two-one and subject to surviving four minutes of added on time will make almost everyone who isn’t about to make a long journey up the A1 deliriously happy.

The four minutes are easily survived, there’s even some hope of a third town goal, but it’s probably best we keep that in the bank for a day when it will make a difference. Pat from Clacton and Fiona are quickly away, Pat particularly so in her new, silky, free-moving pants, but I hang about to applaud and maximise my time spent learning what this new team look like. The new season might have felt like it’s been a while coming, but on the albeit slim evidence of today’s showing it’s been worth the wait.

Ipswich Town 2 Birmingham City 1

April 7, 2026April 7, 2026 / martinpbrooks / Leave a comment

It feels like it’s been a while since I last trekked into Ipswich to see the Town play. In fact, it was only just over a fortnight ago, but so little has happened in my life since then that it feels like eons ago, I think I need to get out more. But at least I don’t live in Gaza, Iran, or the United States of America and this morning the sun is shining brightly as I make my way to the railway station, and the only clouds in the sky seem to be there merely for decoration, although there is a stingy breeze. A message from Greater Anglia tells me that the train is on time, and indeed it’s been a busy morning for messages on my mobile phone, with Mick disturbing my sleep as early as 6:15 to confirm our rendez-vous at the Arb in what was then seven and a half hours-time, and Pat from Clacton telling me that she won’t be at the match today because she twisted her knee last Monday getting in to her car to go to a whist drive.

Having boarded the punctual train, I am soon talking with Gary who continues to remain impressively discreet about his continuing jury service, which is now entering its fourth week. Our journey is again illuminated by the sight of two polar bears in Wherstead, and we briefly speculate as to whether polar bears notice that the clocks have changed given that they are used to winters and summers of almost perpetual darkness or light. Alighting from the train in Ipswich, it feels like that stingy breeze is even stingier here, probably because we’re nearer the coast. Princes Street is well populated with police officers today and I seem to recall this is always the case when today’s visitors Birmingham City come to town. I hadn’t realised that Brummies were such a recalcitrant lot, but then my experience of Birmingham City supporters is limited to a history teacher from when I was at school in the 1970’s, and like most history teachers he never struck me as being much of a threat to public order.

Arriving at the Arb, getting through the door is unexpectedly difficult due to people queuing at the bar, but it’s not long before I’m ordering a pint of Lager 43 for Gary and because there is no Mauldon’s Suffolk Pride available, pints of Mighty Oak Brown Hare for Mick and me. I have no idea of the cost but bravely wave my bank card in the direction of the card reader before we retire to the beer garden and sit at a table at one end of the shelter backing onto High Street. Today is Mick’s birthday and once we have sat down, I present him with a card that I have made especially for him, which features Conservative party leader Kemi Badenoch in the guise of a burlesque dancer, a theme which I had correctly guessed he would find very exciting.

Our conversation veers from Gary’s jury service to Mick’s recent visit to the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge, to today’s team, before Gary buys another pint of Lager 43 for himself, another of Brown Hare for me and a double whisky for Mick. Gary then spills most of his lager down his leg and over his jacket as he finds himself guilty of waving his hands around too much when he talks. It is gone twenty to three when we head for Portman Road and like the bons viveurs that we are, we are of course the last to leave the pub.

Pleasingly, at the back of the Sir Alf Ramsey stand there are no queues to be checked for weapons and scrap metal and the attractive young woman in the hijab soon waves me through once I’ve shown her that my mobile phone is not a ballistic missile or a nunchuk. There is a short queue at the feted turnstile 62, but I’m happy to wait my turn to pass through it and after dispensing some spent Brown Hare I arrive at my seat behind ever-present Phil who never misses a game, and his son Elwood, and next to Fiona, just as the excitable young stadium announcer reads out the names of the last four players in the Town team today, the ones with the highest squad numbers. Like a Frenchman at the Stade Marie-Marvingt in Le Mans or Stade Velodrome in Marseille I bawl out the players surnames as the excitable young announcer announces them.

Eventually, after an abridged rendition of Edward Ebenezer Jeremiah Brown and a few bars of the Beatles’ Hey Jude the game begins, and it is Town who get first go with the ball, which they are directing towards me and my fellow ultras. Fiona and I share the thought that we wish we could just be told now that we’re going to win, or not. It would spare us the pain. Town wear their signature blue and white kit whilst Birmingham are in an unfamiliar all red ensemble and look like a knock-off Swindon Town or Workington. Mysteriously, Birmingham’s shirts feature a white ‘five bar gate’ on the front as if they are keeping a tally of something like games without a win or consecutive years of crushing disappointment; “Keep right on to the end of the road” sing the Brummies in the Cobbold stand miserably, suggesting it might be the latter.

Within a minute, Kasey McAteer is set up at the edge of the penalty area by Nunez and shoots hard, but over the Birmingham cross bar. It looked like a good opportunity to score but Town are continuing to have the ball most of the time, although after five minutes Birmingham are the first of the two teams to raise and then dash their supporters hopes with a fruitless corner kick. The name RJ Dean follows that of Edison in the illuminations that cross the front of the Sir Bobby Robson stand and in spite of myself I think of Pearl and Dean, and one hit wonder soft rockers Edison Lighthouse (Love Grows (where my Rosemary goes)), although I’ve never had a Rosemary.

Despite Town having the better of the game so far, the Birmingham goalkeeper James Beadle isn’t exactly being forced to pull off a string of fine saves and I sense that the people around me aren’t giving the game their full attention. “Watch out Beadle’s about” laughs a man a couple of seats away from me in what could be a pitiful attempt at humour or more likely a cry for help. I ask Fiona what she’s having for her tea and given that she’s sitting where Pat from Clacton usually sits, I shouldn’t be surprised when she says “A baked potato”. But Fiona is quick to point out that unlike Pat from Clacton she won’t be having any fancy toppings from Marks & Spencer such as prawns, she’ll be having baked beans.

“Hark now hear the Ipswich sing, the Norwich ran away” sing the Sir Bobby Robson standers realising that this is the weekend of a Christian festival, but evidently unsure which one. George Hirst wins a corner for Town and along with ever-present Phil I chant “Come On You Blues”. The half is half over and Birmingham win another pointless corner too. Nearly a third of the match has been lost to the ages and I think to myself that I can only remember one shot on goal. Hope springs eternal however and Town earn two more corner kicks in quick succession but as Fiona and I joke, they might as well have turned them down and said to Birmingham, “No, really, it’s ok, you have a goal kick, it’ll save time and all that pushing and shoving”.

Open play seems Town’s best bet for a goal and within sixty seconds a short pass from George Hirst has Kasey McAteer bearing down on Beadle only for his decent looking shot to be saved. Somewhat typically, Birmingham immediately take the ball to the other end of the pitch and a limp, aimless cross later, the ball is swept into the Town goal net by an unhappy looking Spaniard called Carlos Vicente. “How shit must you be? we’re winning away” chant the Brummies, thoughtfully demeaning both teams at once in the spirit of equal opportunities.

The Birmingham supporters are now in good voice with their team’s goal seemingly having lifted the pall of gloom that their Black Country accent usually conveys. “I can’t read and I can’t write but that don’t really matter, I’m a supporter of Ipswich Town and I can drive a tractor” they chant as they strangely feign a west country burr worthy of the Wurzels. It’s not a chant I’ve heard from away supporters in sometime and it suggests that they might get lost on the way home as they look for the signs to the A45 rather than the A14.

Barring the unknown amount of time to be stolen from our futures and added on, there are seven minutes of the first half remaining as Azore Matusiwa is substituted for Anis Mehemeti and I remark to Fiona that they both have the same initials, like Nigel Farage and National Front. “Is this a library” ask the Brummies up in the Cobbold Stand and the obviously well-read and studious man two seats along from me who likes Jeremy Beadle shouts back “You’ve never seen a fucking a library”.

With the forty-first minute comes the confirmation needed that this isn’t a library at all as Ben Johnson cleverly bounces a cross from Furlong into the Birmingham goal, from where it is quickly cleared but not before it has crossed the goal line. Town are level. Four minutes later, and the last library cards are melted down and “Quiet Please” signs burnt as an incisive passing move cuts through the heart of the Birmingham defence putting the constantly running Kasey McAteer through to slip the ball beneath Beadle, and Town are winning. Six minutes of added on time are added on in which Town win another corner from which George Hirst heads over the Birmingham cross bar; but in the circumstances everyone seems happy for now with the one goal lead.

After a slow start the half has ended very well indeed, and Town are deserving of their interval lead as I head down to the front of the stand to talk to Ray, his grandson Harrison and son Michael, stopping only to speak with Dave the steward before later decanting the dregs of the Brown Hare and getting back to my seat by nine minutes past four, when the football resumes.

It is soon apparent that the second half is not living up to the excitement of the first as Ipswich are incapable of retaining the ball. They try to play out from the back as usual, and manage it to the point where Clarke or McAteer are outnumbered and squashed against the touchline and concede throw-ins. Meanwhile, if the ball strays in-field the Birmingham players are falling over like they’ve heard that the ghost of Mack Sennett is in the stand looking for candidates to star in a re-make of the Keystone Cops movies; referee Mr Adam Herczeg is predictably unpredictable but is generally a sucker for anyone falling over.

Birmingham are the first to make substitutions but with just under a half an hour left to play the Town support is beginning to plead with their team. “Come on Ipswich, Come on Ipswich” they implore before moving onto a current favourite, “When the Town go marching in”, which is delivered at a pace that suggests Town will be limping in and we’ll be “in that number” because well, we ‘re here now and we can’t be arsed to move elsewhere. I try to make myself feel better by looking up at the almost clear, blue, afternoon sky and thinking that the stars are still there, I just can’t see them at the moment.

On seventy minutes Birmingham’s Ibrahim Osman gets to the by-line and his cross strikes the chest of Dara O’Shea and drops into the Ipswich goal. From where I’m sat it looks like a perfectly good own goal but happily and perhaps fortunately it’s not. According to the referee’s assistant the ball had gone over the line before it was crossed. The close shave is enough to stir Keiran McKenna into action and he embarks on a mass substitution the like of which has usually occurred about a quarter of an hour before now. Off go Clarke and Nunez, on comes Jaden Philogene and from the excitable young stadium announcer’s announcement it sounds like George Hirst is replaced by both Jack Taylor and Chuba Akpom. Jack Taylor is almost immediately booked for throwing the ball into the crowd, suggesting that his role will be to “manage the game” by just mucking about as much as possible.

From the low point of the near own goal, Town are now improving, looking more resilient. Luckily, although Birmingham are big and strong, with the possible exception of Osman they seem to lack skill and guile. A chant of ”Ole, Ole Ole” , albeit a brief one, suggests some Town fans are confident Town will hang on and I am surprised by how quickly the time passes as we lurch into the final ten minutes. Eighty-four minutes are gone and the excitable young stadium announcer thanks us for our “incredible support” before announcing that we number 29,381 and I cringe as people applaud their own existence. A minute later I gasp as Osman shoots low and Christian Walton dives to tip the ball onto the right-hand post before it is booted clear. But that’s as bad as it gets and four minutes and another four minutes of added-on time slip away into the past without further undue pain, and Ipswich win.

With the final whistle, Fiona is quickly away, but with twenty minutes until my train is due to depart, I linger to applaud the Town and sing another verse or two of Edward Ebenezer Jeremiah Brown. It has been a mostly uncomfortable second half for Town supporters, but Town have won, we have reasons to be cheerful.

Le Mans FC 0 Rodez Aveyron Foot 1

September 15, 2025September 25, 2025 / martinpbrooks / Leave a comment

If travelling from where the channel tunnel burrows its way out from beneath the water into France across to Carnac in Britanny, there are several towns where it is convenient to make an overnight stop and, if you’re that way inclined (and I am), take in a football match. Having previously enjoyed stops in Rouen, Caen and Rennes, this year it is the turn of Le Mans, whose team are hosting Rodez AF in Ligue 2, the French version of England’s Championship but with smaller budgets and better architecture. According to the ‘Football’ Le guide ultime magazine, Le Mans have the joint smallest budget in Ligue 2 this season (5.0m euros), whilst Rodez have the next smallest (7.0m euros).

Our hotel is in a leafy suburb of tower blocks just 200 metres from the Ile de Sport tram stop from where it is a 35-minute journey (e1.50 or e2.90 for a return) changing from tram Line 2 to tram Line 1 at St Martin, to the Stade Marie-Marvingt. This afternoon there is a large, six-wheeled luxury coach in the car park of the hotel and from a short and stilted conversation with the driver I learn that he is driving the Rodez team from the hotel to the stadium. I photograph the coach with the Rodez club badge displayed in the front window as the driver stands back proudly but out of shot. I am tempted to ask for a lift to the stadium but don’t want to miss out on the tram ride to the match, something which makes me pretend I’m Albert Camus. In the hotel lobby, bored looking blokes in grey matching tracksuits hang about mournfully. I wish a couple of them ‘bon match’ and tell them my team is Ipswich Town, it doesn’t appear to relieve their boredom, but pleasingly they have heard of Ipswich Town.

The match is due to kick off at eight o’clock, but keen to immerse ourselves in the pre-match atmosphere my wife Paulene and I head for the tram stop around six, before the team bus has left the hotel. We just miss one tram as I fumble with my bank card at the ticket machine, but another soon arrives, and we are lucky enough to get a seat each. It’s a mild but cloudy evening as we pass through tram stops with names such as Durand-Vaillant, Goya and Gionnieres and on through the uninteresting outskirts arriving eventually at the terminus close to the stadium, the tram depot and the world-famous racing car circuit.

It’s only a short walk from the tram terminus to the stadium, but we accidentally make it longer by walking in the wrong direction, inexplicably failing to follow our fellow would-be spectators as we alight from the tram. Oddly, despite the size of the Stade Marie-Marvingt (it has a capacity in excess of 25,000), it is not visible above the trees. Adjacent to the stadium is a large surface car park, which, showing an impressively sensible double use of the land is roofed by banks of solar panels. A wall surrounds the stadium with blocks of automatic turnstiles at points along it. The approach to the turnstiles features a series of information boards about Marie-Marvingt after whom the stadium is named. Marie was a remarkable woman who not only spied and flew planes for the French Army during World War One but was an accomplished mountaineer. Once inside we are frisked and wished ‘bon match’ by smiling security staff before a very helpful man directs us to the gate nearest our seats, and the club boutique, a lock-up hatch, where in the absence of a petit-fanion or fridge magnet I will later buy a key ring to add obsessively to my collection of French football club souvenirs.

Having located our seats (25 euros each), I decide to explore and discover I can make a complete circuit of the stadium. It’s something of a lazy cliché to describe a modern stadium like the Stade Marie-Marvingt as a ‘soulless bowl’ and on the outside at least it is nothing like the metal-clad B&Q lookalikes found in England as its metal stairs and landings are exposed and sit beneath an elliptical, overhanging roof supported by what look like miniature versions of the Skylon from the Festival of Britain. Having enjoyed the architecture, I buy a beer (7 euros plus 2 euros for an optional re-usable cup featuring club colours and crest) and a bottle of water for Paulene (2 euros) from a buvette where the attractive young woman who serves me has a heavily tattooed decolletage, which I don’t like to look at too closely given its location.

After returning to my seat, Paulene and I pass the time until kick-off laughing at the referee and his assistants as they warm up and rolling our eyes because of the drippy europop being played over the public address system. Eventually, a sort of crescendo is reached, and the floodlights begin to flash on and off like some I’ve seen at non-league grounds, although at them it wasn’t intentional. This is the signal for the teams to process onto the pitch amidst the usual display of flags and banners before the team line-ups are read out and I join in with the home supporters in shouting out the Le Mans players’ surnames, my favourites amongst which are Rossignol and Vercruysse.

When the kick-off, or coupe d’envoi, finally happens it is Le Mans who get first go with the ball playing it back before punting it forward in the direction of the city centre and the medieval cathedral of Saint Julian with its fabulous stained glass; Rodez are playing towards the tram terminus. Le Mans wear red and yellow striped shirts with red shorts although from behind they are all in red; Rodez meanwhile sport an all-white creation with black trim, which looks the same from any angle. From the start, and indeed since before it, the Le Mans fans behind the goal which Rodez are ‘attacking’ have been in fine voice with continuous chants of “Allez Le Mans” and “Aux Armes”. I text my friend Mick back in blighty and send him a photo of the Le Mans fans. He texts back to say they look like hedonists.

On the pitch, my attention is soon taken by the Le Mans numbers five and twenty-one, Harld Voyer and Theo Eyoum, who have their hair tied back in raffish fashion, whilst I also recognise the Rodez number twenty-seven from the hotel lobby. Early exchanges are cagey with Le Mans enjoying a little more possession but looking unsure what to do with it. At the edge of the pitch behind the Rodez goal I am disappointed by the poor grammar of a Le Mans fan group, or possibly just an individual fan, whose banner reads Fanatic’s. Fanatic’s what? I wonder. Another more literate fan group, perhaps from the top stream at the local lycee, are called ‘Worshippers’, whilst another banner reads ‘IDS Present’ and I begin to wonder why former Tory party leader Ian Duncan Smith would be here. After fifteen minutes Le Mans win a corner. A minute later the first decent chance of the game appears but number twenty-five for Rodez, Nolan Galves boots it high over the cross bar.

Time proceeds to the twentieth minute and coincidentally perhaps the Le Mans number twenty William Harhouz is booked for making the Rodez number five Clement Jolibois roll around on the floor unnecessarily, but seven minutes later a rare display of skill in the form of a neat turn and cross by Le Mans’ eighteen, Lucas Buades ends with number twenty-five, Dame Gueye producing a spectacular overhead kick, which is so spectacular it clears the cross bar. More drama ensues after some odd refereeing from Monsieur Aurelien Petit who plays-on whilst Le Mans have the ball, only to then stop play and give a free-kick to Rodez, whose number twenty-eight Mathis Saka is subsequently carried off on a stretcher.

The match rolls on towards half-time, rarely threatening to produce a goal but instead producing the yellow card from the pocket of Monsieur Petit another five times whilst an aeroplane buzzes overhead invisibly through the deepening gloom of dusk. Five minutes of additional time are played during which the last two yellow cards of the half are shown, one for a player of each team, and then it is mi-temps.

The football resumes at five minutes past nine with a boot into touch but things soon improve with a spectacular save from the Rodez goalkeeper Quentin Braat after a free-kick to Le Mans and a close range shot, which would surely have beaten Braat had it not been so weak. At the back for Rodez it seems that number four Mathis Magnin is charged with spraying deep penetrating passes, some of which penetrate too far and result in goal kicks and throw-ins. He nevertheless wears a head band to signal his creativity.

With the sun now having disappeared below the horizon it’s feeling colder, and the breeze previously only felt outside the stadium is finding its way inside; I zip up my jacket. Back on the pitch, the Rodez number five Clement Jolibois appears to be channelling the spirit of Terry Butcher as he strides about with a bandage around the top of his head, although there is no visible trace of gore. There doesn’t seem much prospect of a goal either, but then with a fraction more than thirty minutes of normal time remaining Rodez’s number fifteen, Jean Lambert Evans produces a cross from the left which allows number eleven Tairyk Arconte, who is stood all alone at the near post to head in the limpest looking goal I’ve seen in some time. Happily, for the fifteen away supporters I have counted, who have apparently made the 6 hour 20 minute, 657 kilometre journey up from Rodez, the goal is scored at their end of the ground.

The Le Mans coach Patrick Videira, who is unlikely to be confused with former Arsenal captain Patrick Vieira responds to the goal with a mass substitution, bringing on club captain Edwin Quarshie and the popular Erwan Colas as well as Baptiste Guillaume. The change almost works as Le Mans quickly win a corner, but Guillaume volleys over the cross bar from about 10 metres out. Two more substitutes appear just a few minutes later in the shape of Brice Oggad and Isaac Cossier and Rodez have some catching up to do in terms of player replacement, which begins as soon as the seventy-first minute and will be completed a mere nine minutes later.

With seventeen minutes of normal time remaining the opportunity to more or less guarantee victory presents itself to Rodez but although stood with the whole goal before him, recent substitute Ibrahima Balde cannot beat Nicolas Kocik in the Le Mans goal and merely wins a corner, not the match. Meanwhile, I am becoming tetchy due to the pungent smell of the body spray or aftershave of the man sat in front of me. I wonder to myself if his toiletries are becoming more active as the tension of the game mounts.

Le Mans twice come close to equalising in the increasingly frantic final fifteen minutes with Quarshie shooting too high and then having another shot expertly tipped over the cross bar. Brice Oggad also has a shot following a corner in what will prove to be the last decent opportunity for anyone to score, but he ‘shanks it’ high and wide. The four minutes of added on time seem pretty solid when held up on the electronic display by the fourth official, but like grains of sand they slip through Le Mans’ fingers and the game ends.

On the walk back to the tram terminus Paulene and I agree that overall Rodez were the better team even if Le Mans had most of the possession. We also agree that whilst it’s not been a particularly good match, it’s been an enjoyable one and I am therefore able to report that the best thing about the evening has not been the tram ride, although that was pretty good too.