sport

Halesworth Town 3 Haverhill Rovers 1

/ martinpbrooks / Leave a comment

Between March 2017 and April 2019, I watched matches at each one of Suffolk’s then twenty-four senior football clubs and recounted my experiences in this here blog.  Since then, Debenham Leisure Centre and Whitton United have sadly dropped out of senior football but this season the Eastern Counties League First Division North has welcomed two more Suffolk clubs into the fold in the shape of Kings Park Rangers, who are from Great Cornard but seemingly too shy to admit it, and Halesworth Town, who are proudly, clearly from Halesworth. 

Today, with Ipswich Town playing far too far away in deepest Wales to trouble me to even think of getting a ticket, even if I had enough ‘points,’ I am travelling up to Halesworth in part one of my plan to restore my record of having seen all of Suffolk’s senior teams on their home turf.  Fortuitously, today’s fixture is also an all-Suffolk cup-tie against Haverhill Rovers of the Eastern Counties Premier League, and the first time Halesworth Town have ever reached the second round of the FA Vase.   To add to the adventure even more, despite the additional twenty minutes each way that it will take me, I am responsibly reducing congestion on the roads by eschewing making the 88-kilometre journey from my home by planet saving Citroen e-C4 in favour of taking the train (£18.10 return with senior railcard). It also means I can get plastered if I choose to.

It’s an intermittently cloudy but mild November day as I set off for Halesworth, but I am nevertheless surprised as I wait for the train that one of my fellow travellers appears to have forgotten to put on any trousers or a skirt.  Once on the train, the infinite variety of human life continues to reveal itself as a small man of pensionable age repeats the names of the station stops as they are heard over the public address system; every now and then he delves headfirst into a large carrier bag as if checking on the wellbeing of a small animal or perhaps a baby.  When the woman sitting opposite me goes to the buffet car, she asks me to mind her belongings. I of course agree but tell her she needs to be back before we get to Ipswich.   When she returns, I tell her I had to fight off a couple of people who looked interested in her jacket but otherwise everything has been fine.  Fortunately, she laughs, but the man of east Asian origin next to me looks at me askance and when she begins to struggle to open a bottle of drink, he very quickly offers to help so that she doesn’t have to deal with the looney opposite her again.  The woman soon begins to chew on a large sandwich and a younger man on the other side of the aisle between the seats does the same thing, but takes much bigger bites, happily from a different sandwich, although with every bite he looks like he might lose a finger.

I change trains at Ipswich, boarding the 13:16 to Lowestoft, which departs a good twelve seconds early.  I like the East Suffolk line, to me it feels like a one-hundred- and seventy-year-old umbilical cord connecting the outside world to rural Suffolk with its rustic sounding stations such as Campsea Ashe and Darsham and their Victorian architecture.  Between the stations are Suffolk landscapes of river and marsh, Oak and Broom, sheep and pigs, outwash sands and boulder clay and gaunt, grey, flint church towers.  As the guard checks passengers’ tickets, he helpfully advises those alighting at Halesworth not to use the doors in the front carriage, because the Halesworth station platform is not that long.  There seem to be quite a few of us alighting at Halesworth.

The train arrives on time in Halesworth, where the sun shines from a pale blue autumn sky. A helpful sign points and tells pedestrians that it’s a seven-minute walk to the town centre and a minute’s walk to local bus stops on Norwich Road. Sadly however, no sign points helpfully towards Halesworth Town football ground, although having previously consulted the interweb I happen to know it is very close indeed, perhaps no more than a hefty goal-kick away.   I walk up an alley between the railway lines and Halesworth Police station, a huge four-storey block of a building, which although it probably dates from the1960’s makes me think of a Norman castle keep, built to keep the locals in check.  At the top of the alley, I turn right over a bridge above the railway and then right again down another alley the other side of the tracks, and down to the Ipswich bound railway platform. From here it is no more than 150 metres up Dairy Hill to the football ground, making it a toss-up between Halesworth and Newmarket as to which senior Suffolk football ground is most easily accessible by rail, my money’s on Halesworth.

Despite its attractive name, Dairy Hill is just an uninspiring street of modest modern houses; from the top I make my way across the stony club car park and along the back of the club house to the ground entrance.  For a mere seven pounds I gain a programme (£1.00) and entry to the match as an over sixty-five, all that is missing is the click of a turnstile.  The ground itself is underwhelming, but it does boast a decent looking pitch with a smart timber fence all around and a small stand at the end nearest the clubhouse, which according to ground grading rules needs to be big enough to accommodate fifty spectators, although I’m not sure if FA rules say how large or small the spectators need to be.  The height of Halesworth’s stand suggests they should not be significantly taller than about 1.8 metres unless wearing crash helmets.

I head for the club house where the bar offers the usual array of fizzy lagers and cider and a pump which intriguingly bears the name ‘Wainwright’ written in biro on a plain white sticky label.  The barman generously allows me a sampler of the ‘Wainwright’ and seeing as there’s nothing-else I might like I order a pint (£4.60) before heading outside again to visit the food trailer, where a tall man with tattooed arms, who looks like men in food trailers often do serves me chilli, chips and cheese for a modest six pounds, less than half what I paid for much the same thing in an Ipswich pub earlier this week. 

I return to the club house to eat my chips and drink my beer, not being someone who likes to eat or drink standing up.  The club house looks like there might be an older timber building, which has had a new roof and supporting structure placed over the top of it, it smells a little like that too, having a faint musty odour which isn’t uncommon in old village halls and clubhouses.  The black and white interior décor and monochrome photos of old teams on the walls remind me a little of the Long Melford club house before it was re-built.

With chips eaten and beer drunk, I wait outside for kick-off, observing the growing crowd and the queue to get in at the gate, before standing closer to where the two teams will line up before the procession on to the pitch to shake hands and then observe the minute’s silence for remembrance day, a silence  which whilst well observed around the pitch plays out to a back ground of chatter from inside the bar and clubhouse, where life continues as usual, oblivious to the  silence outside.

Eventually, it is Haverhill Rovers who begin the game, by getting first go with the ball, which they quickly hoof forward in the general direction of the stand, the railway station and town centre beyond, before it is booted into touch by a Halesworth defender, not unreasonably practicing safety first.  It’s good to see both teams wearing their signature kits, Rovers in a rich shade of all red, whilst Halesworth sport black and white stripes with black shorts. In front of the only stand, a youth bangs the sort of drum I wouldn’t bet against him having been given as a present for his sixth birthday, probably about six years ago.  The bulk of the crowd are lined up behind the post and rail fence along the touchline opposite the dug outs and when Halesworth win the ball they emit an encouraging rustic roar.

Seven minutes have passed and it’s Rovers who are the team kicking the ball most of the time; their number seven Prince Mutswunguma performs a neat turn and a decent cross which is headed over the Halesworth cross bar.  The pattern of the game is generally one where the long ball is favoured over short passes and two minutes later Mutswunguma blazes the ball high above the Halesworth cross bar.  I stroll along the front of the empty stand between it and the pre-pubescent ultras but remain nervous of hitting my head on the low roof.  I stop close to the corner flag, halted by a sign forbidding further progress and disappointingly preventing me from walking round to watch the game from behind or between the dugouts, where the angst and frequent bad language of the managers and coaches is often as entertaining as the match.   I am nevertheless now in a good position to see Rovers’ desperate claims for a penalty as Mutswunguma tumbles under a challenge from number 6, Ollie Allen and then two more players fall over. “Fucking disgraceful” opines a gruff voice from somewhere, either on the pitch or in the dugouts, but I’m not sure if he means not giving a penalty or having the temerity to appeal for one.

Keen to see the game from as many angles as possible I move again, this time to near the corner flag diagonally opposite the one I have been standing by.  I settle near a man in late middle age who sports a Stranglers t-shirt and beanie hat bearing the name of The Rezillos, the excellent late 1970’s Scottish ‘punk’ band fronted by Faye Fife and Eugene Reynolds.  He is on his mobile phone and seems to be arranging a claim on his motor insurance having hit something when parking his car in the club car park.  In my new position I also benefit from a good view of an increasing number of unsuccessful Halesworth breakaways as the home team gain in confidence from repelling all Rovers’ attempts to score.

In goal for Halesworth, George Macrae has made a string of fine saves as Rovers win a succession of corners.  Rovers’ best effort is a shot from Kyle Markwell, whose surname gives a clue to the opposition as to how to treat him, that whistles past a post.  A half an hour is lost to history and Halesworth fashion another breakaway as captain Toby Payne receives a diagonal pass out on the left.  “He’s on!  He’s on! Well, he’s not off” shouts a young man to my left with rising excitement as Rovers’ offside trap is sprung. Payne advances into the penalty box, shapes up to shoot but then side foots weakly too close to the goalkeeper Alex Archer, who doesn’t have to stretch far to prevent a goal.  Two minutes later however Halesworth break again down the left and this time the ball is pulled back from the by-line for Lewis Chenery to score easily into the middle of the Rovers’ goal from no more than 8 metres out and it’s 1-0 to Halesworth Town.

The remaining dozen minutes of the half repeat the established pattern of the previous thirty-three, and another Rovers’ corner is headed wide, which I view from back near the clubhouse as I prepare to be ahead of the queues for the toilet and the tea bar when the referee, the extravagantly monikered Mr Gasson-Cox sounds the half-time whistle.  Having invested in a pound’s worth of tea I take-up a position for the second half just to the right of the stand, but not before I overhear a club official talking to the man on the gate and learn that the attendance today is a stonking two-hundred and fifty-eight.    As the new half begins and the light fades, the lovely smell of the turf rises up from the pitch. A woman standing next to me tells me we will see the goals at this end in the second half and I agree, telling her that with the goal being scored at the other end in the first half, it figures that this is the end where the goals will be scored this half.  We talk a little more and after I reveal I have an Ipswich Town season ticket, she admits to being a Norwich City supporter, but sympathetically I tell her someone has to be.

With the start of the second half at three minutes past four Halesworth seem to have lost a little of the confidence they showed by the end of the first half, perhaps because they realise they have to go through another forty-five minutes similar to the first, and indeed they do. But with twenty minutes gone and no further score it is Rovers who first feel the need to make substitutions.  “Who are ya?” chant the pre-pubescent ultras, as well they might as the new players emerge from the dugout.  Five minutes later and Halesworth’s Tane Backhouse is the first player to see the yellow one of Mr Gasson-Cox’s two cards, although as I become increasingly biased in favour of the home team and their superb goalkeeper, I can’t really figure out why.  Two minutes later and I’m cheering as another characteristic break down the right sees Toby Payne run to the edge of the Rovers penalty area, cut across a little towards the middle and then shoot unerringly inside the far post and Halesworth lead 2-0.  “Oh when the Town go marching in” sing the mini ultras, as do a number of people old enough to know better, but understandably carried away by the moment.

Things get no better for Rovers as after  an innocuous looking foul Mr Gasson-Cox nevertheless seems annoyed with Prince Mutswunguma and standing his ground, summons him over before showing him the yellow card.  “Wemberley, Wemberley” sing the Halesworth fans who should know better but are now too happy to care, but as they do so Rovers, perhaps realising their desperate position with only ten minutes left embark on a final push.   It’s twenty to five as George Macrae makes another fine save, this time diving low to his left. “Two-nil down on your big day out” sing the pre-pubescents, not helping the situation with their cruel taunts and Rovers win another corner.  The corner is cleared but moments later the ball is crossed low from the right and Rovers’ number eleven and captain Jarid Robson half volleys it high into the centre of the goal from a narrow angle and the score is a nerve-wracking 2-1.

It’s now eleven minutes to five, the match is a minute into added on time and Rovers are besieging the Halesworth goal like local Saxons or Danes outside the Norman police station.  A cross comes in from the left, and a Rovers head goes up diverting the ball goalwards but once again George Macrae appears, seemingly from nowhere to save the day again by cleanly catching the ball.  “Six more minutes Haverhill” I hear a voice call, perhaps from the Rovers’ dugout, or perhaps it was Mr Gasson-Cox or someone just mucking about. Six minutes seems an awfully long time given that neither I nor the lady next to me can recall anyone really being injured.  Another Rovers corner goes straight to the arms of Macrae but then Halesworth break away again, bearing down on goal on the right and then switching the ball across the edge of the penalty box before number eleven Alex Husband shoots from a narrow angle and the ball strikes a Rovers defender and arcs up over Archer the goalkeeper and into the goal off the far post.  It’s 3-1 to Halesworth! The game is surely won and the knot of Halesworth players hugging by the corner flag and the under12’s ultras who have run along behind us hoping to celebrate with them clearly think so.

Very soon however, it’s three minutes to five and finally Mr Gasson-Cox parps his whistle for the last time today and Halesworth are into the third round of the FA Vase. Most people wait to cheer and applaud the team as they leave the pitch, but not before they applaud Mr Gasson-Cox the referee and his assistants, which is something you don’t see every day, and then the Haverhill players too.  It’s been a wonderful afternoon, an exciting cup-tie played in front of a large and appreciative crowd, and everyone’s had a lovely time.  As I leave the ground and make my way back across the stony car park and down Dairy Hill to the station I reflect on what a fine little town Halesworth is and how one day I really should return. All hail Halesworth!

Haverfordwest County 2 Floriana Malta 3

/ martinpbrooks / Leave a comment

When life does not have us locked into the dull, repetitive cycle of getting up, going to work, going to bed, getting up, going to work, going to bed, getting up, going to work, going to bed, getting up and so on then it occasionally brightens our existence with unexpected events and happy coincidences which almost make the rest of time worth trudging through.

In the late summer or early autumn of 1962 (what is September?), my team Ipswich Town were reigning Football League Champions of England and were in the European Cup, what is now known as the Champions League.  Even back in 1962 there was a bias against teams that weren’t called Madrid or Manchester and despite Ipswich being genuine Champions and not some bunch of also-rans that had limped into third or fourth place in their country’s league, they had to play in a qualifying tie in which they were drawn against Floriana Malta.  Sadly, despite living locally, I was only a couple of months beyond my second birthday and so I didn’t make it to either match of the two-legged tie. That was just my luck, because Ipswich won 14-1 on aggregate and consequently ever since I was old enough to understand this, I have regretted not being about ten years older than I actually am.

But life and football are, as popular culture seems to have it, ‘funny old games’, and sixty-three years on Haverfordwest County, the football club from the town of my birth and therefore another of ‘my teams’ have qualified for the first qualifying round of the European Conference League and have drawn the very same Floriana Malta, proof of a sort that time is round.  All I need now is for Haverfordwest to win 14-1 on aggregate, although being already 2-1 down from the first leg in Valletta, this is going to be a tall order.

The wonder of Google maps tells us that it’s about 425 kilometres from my home to Parc y Scarlets in Llanelli, home of Llanelli rugby club.  The match is to be played in Llanelli because Haverfordwest’s Ogi Bridge Meadow ground does not meet the exacting standards UEFA president Gianni Infantino requires to ensure he doesn’t sully the bright white tennis shoes that the strange, bald-headed Italian thinks match his dark suits.  But my step-son lives in Basingstoke from where it is a mere 274 kilometres to Llanelli, so to reduce travel time on the day of the match my wife Paulene and I arrange an overnight stay with him in the town which claims to be where Jane Austen was born, the price of which is merely that I  have to read a bed-time story to the grandchildren.  Unable to find my stepson’s copy of Northanger Abbey, I read them “Oi Dinosaur.”

It’s a smooth, carefree journey down the M4, except for the occasional pothole and strip of patched tarmac, with just one toilet stop and one stop to top up the battery of our planet saving Citroen e-C4.  Once in Llanelli, a town which used to have its own trolleybuses, from our carefully chosen but affordable hotel where the mattresses on the beds used to be endorsed by no less a comedian than Sir Lenny Henry, it is but a ten-minute walk to Parc Y Scarlets.  Having struggled through the surprisingly busy Llanelli traffic back to the hotel following a brief visit to the beach, it is now only about 45 minutes until kick-off when we set off through the adjacent retail park in the company of seven Maltese men in green t-shirts and several Haverfordwest fans.  The evening is warm and humid, and shorts and T-shirts abound. Parc y Scarlets is a modern, but rather boring looking stadium, all white steel girders and grey corrugated sheet metal, but with a ‘grand’ main entrance reminiscent of an out-of-town 1980’s cinema or a car show room, all in the setting of an expansive car park.

Disappointingly, there are no match programmes on sale this evening; perhaps there is one on-line but probably due to my age I prefer the real world, where everything can be held in my hand or stuffed in a pocket, and not a virtual one.  Craving a memento of the day however, beyond the pay and display ticket acquired from Lanelli beach car park, and wanting something specific to the match, I buy a T-shirt (£20) from a collection of blokes stood behind a trestle table outside the stadium.  Had I bought a club shirt for £45 I could have had a free one, but I don’t need a polyester shirt (who does?) and am a bit sniffy about football shirts that advertise betting companies.

Once inside the stadium, having surprised myself by successfully negotiating the turnstile with tickets that are on my mobile phone, and blushing slightly after being called ‘my lovely’ by the lady turnstile operator, along with Paulene I investigate the food and drink available.  It’s mostly the usual slightly unpleasant stadium fayre and we come away with just a bottle of water without a lid, and a plastic 500ml cup of Felinfoel IPA (£7.40) chilled to a temperature capable of inducing a painful headache, but at least it’s a locally produced beer.

Paulene heads up to the seats whilst I sink the IPA which is not allowed sight of the pitch and which I don’t really enjoy because it is so cold and fizzy. I re-join Paulene just as the Haverfordwest male voice choir, who are stood on the pitch in front of the main stand, deliver a stirring rendition of Cwm Rhondda and it’s not long before they’re exercising their larynx again with the Welsh national anthem (Hen Wlad Fy Nhadau) as the teams file onto the pitch.  The choir are magnificent, but I am ashamed to admit that I do not know the words to the National Anthem and the electric piano accompaniment makes me think of Terry Jones as the nude organist in Monty Python’s Flying Circus, despite this evening’s keyboard player being fully clothed.

When the game begins, Haverfordwest, all in blue, get first go with the ball, sending it in the general direction of our hotel, whilst Floriana Malta, wearing a very fetching outfit of green and white striped shirts with green shorts and socks are kicking roughly in the direction of Swansea. The Floriana supporters are at the far end of the stand and have a massive banner, the Haverfordwest support has a drum which regrettably is just a few rows behind us.

The opening minutes belong to Haverfordwest, who sensibly look keen to delete the one goal deficit from the first leg as soon as possible.  The understandably more sun-tanned Floriana players however, look like they are taking time to acclimatise to west Wales and soon concede a corner, and then another from which the ball is headed back at the far post and at the second attempt an unmarked Greg Walters boots it conclusively into the Floriana goal net.  The match is barely more than ten minutes-old and the aggregate scores are level. I remark to Paulene that I think Walters, as well as being the goal scorer, has the best hair on the pitch, it being reminiscent of former Ipswich and Arsenal player Alan Sunderland, but fluffier.

Haverfordwest continue to dominate and six minutes later score again, this time through the rangy Ben Ahmun, who successfully pursues a ball ‘down the left channel’, cuts into the penalty area and then instinctively launches a spectacular shot inside the far post from an oblique angle. Sixteen minutes gone and two-nil to Haverfordwest already, and with a bit of the right imagination and perhaps a change to the rules, the hoped-for 14-1 aggregate score is looking like a possibility.

Sadly, the second Haverfordwest goal seems to awaken Floriana from their torpor as if they could live with being one goal down, but not two. An attack down the left, a corner and the good fortune of a deflected shot by Carlo Lonardelli quickly sees the aggregate score level at 3-3 and daydreams of exotic destinations awaiting in future rounds quickly melt away to be replaced by penalty shoot-out induced anxiety.

On balance, Haverfordwest remain the better team as half-time looms, but then out of the blue, disaster strikes.  A harmless punt forward is collected by Luc Rees in the Haverfordwest goal, but as he does so the referee adjudges defender Alaric Jones to have fouled Floriana’s gangly Mustapha Jah, a player who seems to find standing up difficult at the best of times.  Not only does the referee award a penalty, but he also sends off Jones, presenting him with a second yellow card to accompany the one he showed him as early as the seventh minute.  From where I’m sat I can’t see how it’s a foul, let alone one worth a second booking and the resultant sending off.   But the penalty is easily scored by Jake Grech and from being ahead on aggregate and dreaming of possible future fixtures in Azerbaijan, Lichtenstein or Moldova, Haverfordwest are now looking like being confined to the principality for another year at least. Six minutes of added on time fail to alter the course of history.  To make matters worse the stadium announcer insists on telling us the score even though we’re here in the stadium with him and he also reads it back to front, as if Haverfordwest are the away team, and he gives added emphasis to Haverfordwest’s score as if they are winning, which of course they are not.

Half-time is a period for quiet reflection before the game resumes. Down to just ten players and losing, Haverfordwest never re-capture the urgency of the first fifteen minutes.  There are a couple of chances, a couple of bursts of potential score altering passing play from Haverfordwest and Ahmun hits a post early in the second half, but mostly it’s a tale of frustrated anticipation and blokes in stripey green shirts falling over. Some of the Haverfordwest supporters don’t do themselves any favours either,  chanting “You dirty Maltese bastards”, which as well as being racist is also inaccurate as of Floriana’s starting eleven, three are Argentinian, two are Brazilian, one is Gambian, one is Tanzanian and one is Serbian.   Then, in the sixty-seventh minute Floriana score again as Charles M’Bombwa (the Tanzanian) lashes the ball high into the net past Luc Rees from an improbably acute angle.  We tell ourselves there’s always hope, but there probably isn’t and things just fall apart a little more with manager Tony Pennock having been sent to the stand even before the third goal, and in time added-on Rhys Abbruzzese is also sent off after being booked for a second time.

After the glory of Cardiff two years ago, the disappointment this evening is palpable, as disappointment always seems to be. With the final whistle, supporters file out quickly, many not lingering to applaud the laudable but ultimately unsuccessful efforts of the Haverfordwest County players.  Paulene and I turn and leave too, and my last memory of the inside of Parc y Scarlets is a glimpse of Sgorio presenter Sioned Dafydd stood in a short red coat on the far side of the pitch.  I don’t think I find Sioned attractive but there is something strangely alluring about her, I suspect it’s because when I see her on Sgorio she mostly speaks Welsh and I have no idea what she’s saying, although I can’t say I feel the same about Dylan Ebenezer.

A short while later back at our hotel, I will meet a Haverfordwest supporter wearing an Ipswich Town shirt, although as he will explain, he does not support Ipswich Town, but he bought the shirt when he went to see Ed Sheeran at Portman Road.  I wonder to myself if anyone ever bought a Tranmere Rovers shirt when going to see Half Man Half Biscuit or a Real Madrid shirt when seeing Julio Iglesias. I will also meet a ‘groundhopper’ from Nottingham, although he doesn’t like the term, and a man who has travelled to the match from Lincolnshire with his son because like me his son was born in Haverfordwest, which all go to prove that although they lost, Haverfordwest playing Floriana Malta in the European Conference league has been a good thing; sadly I can’t always have my teams winning 14-1 on aggregate.

Little Oakley 1 Barking 1

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The village of Little Oakley in Essex, Wikipedia tells us, had a population in 2011 of 1,171 and is on the outskirts of Harwich.  More precisely, Google maps tells us that Little Oakley is a four kilometre, fifty-eight minute walk from Harwich International railway station.  Now, I reckon I could walk 4 kilometres in less than 58 minutes, but I am nevertheless of a lazy disposition and therefore, today I have opted to drive the thirty-six kilometres from my house to the Memorial Ground, home of Little Oakley FC in my planet saving Citroen e-C4,  rather than enjoy a travel melange of rail, bus and walking, which would take me between one and  half and two and a half hours depending on connections.  Today at the Memorial Ground, Little Oakley FC are playing Barking in the Essex Senior League, the ninth level of English league football.

It’s a beautiful, bright, clear, winter’s day and but for a Luton van pulling out in front of me from a lay-by on the A120, I have a relaxed, trouble-free journey, played out to a soundtrack of the Saturday afternoon pre-match football coverage on BBC Radio Essex, featuring amongst others, the dulcet tones of Glenn Pennyfather and Danny Cowley.  My Citroen’s SatNav doesn’t seem to know about the Memorial Ground, so my journey ends with an abrupt left hand turn when suddenly from the B1414 I see the street sign for Lodge Road, which I remember from looking at a map is adjacent to the Memorial Ground.  I park up at the side of the narrow approach road, beneath an avenue of trees with a deep ditch on one side and wooden fence on the other on which several signs plead with drivers not to park too close to it.  I make the short walk to the clubhouse enjoying the sound of birdsong whilst inhaling the smell of hot cooking oil, probably chip fat.

The clubhouse is welcoming and populated with happy pre-match drinkers.  I buy a bottle of Adnams’ almost non-alcoholic ‘Ghostship’ (£3.20) and the bar maid asks if I’d like a glass, I would. I stand and look up at one of three TV screens showing Sky TV.  From a hatch, behind which is the clubhouse kitchen, a middle-aged woman looks out glumly. “Fed up?” I ask her.  “Bored” she says “It was busy, and now it’s quiet”.  This lady seems responsible for fulfilling the whole crowd’s need for food and hot drink on her own but it will soon be kick-off, so for now she’s not needed.

I sink my low alcohol beer as quickly as I can without burping and head outdoors where a man with a loud, deep voice directs me to turn left beyond the shipping container at the far end of the car park.  A short, friendly man emerges from a hut, a bit like municipal car park attendants used to in the far off days before ‘Pay and Display’, and asks if I’m a concession.  I ask how old you have to be to be a concession; it turns out it’s sixty-five and he apologises when I tell him I’m only sixty-four. But it does mean I’m about six months further from the grave than I would have been if I’d been a concession, even if I will be three quid poorer for it.  Having handed over my £8.00 in cash, I ask if there is a programme and am surprised to find that there is. “Here you are, if you’d like something to read” says the man, handing me six colourful sheets of A4 paper stapled together in the top left-hand corner.  Best of all the programme is free, as if a little bit of France has been re-located to the top right-hand corner of rural Essex.

Pap-rock plays over the public address system as I take stock of the ground, which has two small pre-fabricated metal terraces behind one goal and another pre-fabricated metal stand with seats overlooking the far half of the pitch; it looks as if there wasn’t room behind the dugouts for the stand to be level with the half way line.  The ground backs onto a hedge and a couple of Oak trees on one side and onto the gardens of a row of semi-detached houses on the other.  At the far end there is just a playing field and a trio of teenagers have leaned their bikes against the rail around the pitch. I can also see from here that the clubhouse appears to have a partly corrugated metal roof; I bet it rattles when it rains.

The pap-rock gives way to Jeff Beck’s ‘Hi-Ho Silver Lining’ and the two teams amble onto the pitch; if there is any shaking of hands or other gestures of sportsmanship I miss them. I stand close to the home team dugout and next to me a man talking into his mobile phone says “We got two meal deals at the Co-op before we came out, so we ‘ad them”.  In the ‘technical area’ in front of the dugout, a track-suited man calls out to the home players “Ave a look, ‘ave a look, just be aware of the fuckin’ double bluff”.  I have no idea what he means, and decide not to ask him.

The match begins, and Barking get first go with the ball, their second touch being a hefty hoof out to the left wing.  Little Oakley, known as ‘The Acorns’ are wearing blue and black striped shirts with black shorts, a bit like a destitute man’s Inter Milan and are defending the empty, featureless end of the ground with marshes, Hamford Water and the North Sea a kilometre or two beyond.  Barking are all in yellow, with black sleeves, and they defend the clubhouse and Ramsey end of the ground, with the River Stour and Suffolk beyond that.   Barking win an early corner with some clever play by their number seven Michele Maccari. “Why’s that big guy on the edge? ‘e’s got a massive head on him” asks a lad sat behind me of his two friends, who I think could all be Little Oakley players who are not playing today. The ‘guy on the edge’ is stood at the edge of the penalty box and whilst he is quite tall, I must admit I can’t really see that his head is any bigger than anyone else’s.

“Barking, Barking give us a song” chants a bloke tamely, somewhere off to my right.  “If you all ‘ate Dagenham clap your ‘ands” comes the response from three or four other voices.  Unfortunately, Little Oakley has no such choir. It’s just gone a quarter past three and despite Barking probably playing, or at least attempting to play the more attractive and neater football, it is Little Oakley who have the first decent shot on goal, as number ten, Daniel Rowe spectacularly volleys the ball against the foot of a goalpost creating a pleasing metallic pinging sound. Recovering from the momentary excitement, I notice that between the semi-detached houses on the far side of the ground and across the water inbetween, I can see two dockside cranes at the Port of Felixstowe, beyond which and unbeknown to me, Felixstowe & Walton Football Club are on their way to drawing nil-nil with Haringey Borough in the Isthmian League.

Barking make claims for a penalty as one of their number tumbles between two Oakley defenders and at this point the referee seems to lose any affection the visitors might have once had for him. “You’re a joke ref” calls a man from behind a camera with a tele-photo lens, “Absolute clown ref”.  It’s nearly twenty-five past three and all of a sudden Barking take the lead; a clever, arcing cross being headed in at the near post by number six and captain Fahad Nyanja.

As the game is about to resume, an Acorns’ player calls out “We keep going, we fucking keep going”.  It is stating the obvious and I for one would feel a bit short-changed if this early in the game they’d all along been secretly playing ‘next goal wins’ .  As unnecessary as it should be, these apparent words of encouragement nevertheless almost work but in an unexpected way, as a low cross from the Oakley number seven, Idris Namisi is diverted against a goal post by Barking number four Sam Edwards.  Idris Namisi seems a popular player amongst the home crowd, and I can’t help but like him too, even if it’s probably because his first name is the same as that of the dragon who lived in the firebox of Ivor the Engine.

Oakley’s number ten, Rowe claims the honour of being the first player to be booked as he pulls back a Barking player and I agree with the old boy stood next to me, whose grandson is the Oakley number eleven, Luke Hipkin, when he says it was a needless, stupid foul.   The old boy asks me if I’m from Harwich and I tell him I grew up in Shotley just over the river from here. “Not far away, then “. He says. ”Not if you’ve got a boat” I reply.  Back on the pitch, the Oakley players are arguing amongst themselves. 

The half ends with Rowe being put through on goal for Oakley with just the Barking keeper to beat, but his shot is saved and Idris the popular dragon blazes the rebound high and wide.   I check my phone and Ipswich are losing 0-3 at Liverpool, which makes me glad I’m here and not on Merseyside.   With the half-time whistle I make for the club house to drain off excess low alcohol Ghostship and invest in one pound fifty’s worth of tea, because under a clear sky it’s beginning to get cold as the sun sinks in the west.  The middle-aged woman in the kitchen is being cheerfully rushed off her feet serving tea, frying chips, griddling burgers and taking cash and card payments. I can’t help but think it’s a pity the players and managers of both teams can’t just get on with what they’re meant to be doing with as little complaint. I haven’t heard her say ‘fuck’ once.

I take my tea outside into the softening, late, winter afternoon sunlight and the match resumes at two minutes past four; I stand by the Barking dugout. “Get ‘old of the fucker” barks the Barking manager  a seemingly irascible  man sporting a stylish grey cap and white goatee beard, who sounds like Ray Winstone and mostly never says ‘fuck’ or ‘fuckin’ in a sentence unless he can say it half a dozen times.  Mostly, his exasperation seems to be directed at his own Barking team who, I can only guess, aren’t playing so much like the Spanish national team, as may be he told them to.

Time goes on and Barking’s number eleven Ugonna Emineke is booked for time wasting as he delays taking a throw-in because there is a rumpus happening in the penalty area and he’s waiting for it to subside.  Unfortunately for Emineke, the referee only had eyes for him and hadn’t noticed the pushing and shoving in the penalty  area, although before the throw is eventually taken he has to go and sort it out and speak to his assistant about it. Then, with twenty minutes of the half gone Oakley equalise, Idris Namisi nipping in to poke a cross over the goal line from close range.

As it has progressed, the game has become increasingly fractious, with a number of Acorns players being quite aggressive, whilst Barking players have acted out fouls where none has been made, sometimes squealing and moaning for additional effect.  All this has been against a  background of some of the most  liberal use of the word ‘fuck’ I have ever heard and I wonder what people do during the week to make them so angry on a Saturday.

Things don’t improve when at twenty-seven minutes to five Emineke is sent off for a ‘professional’ (or, as this is only the Essex Senior League perhaps ‘semi-professional’) foul, and The Acorns are awarded a penalty, which the balding and bearded Darren Mills takes and Daniel Purdue saves, diving excellently to his right.  “How many more fucking chances do we get?” moans The Acorns’ number three Adie Cant.  “Calm the fuck down” shouts the coach “Fuckin’ ‘ell”. It’s as if Peter Cook and Dudley Moore’s Derek and Clive had had an afternoon out at the football.

With the aftermath of the penalty, the worst of the afternoon’s fractiousness is over and much  of the final twenty minutes plays out against the back-drop of a glorious, blood red sunset,   A friendly man wearing a day-glo gilet bearing the words ‘LO Media Officer’ on the back, talks to me briefly and asks if I’m a ground hopper, “Not really” I tell him, “ I usually watch Ipswich”,  although I don’t let on that for forty years I’ve kept a list of every game I’ve ever been to.  He’s soon photographing the main stand against the sunset however, and the match plays out shifting freely from end to end,  but with neither side looking much like scoring the winning goal. Meanwhile, I wonder at the name of a local fish and chip shop, Pieseas Chippy, which is advertised at the pitch side.

The final whistle blows at eight minutes to five and an appreciative crowd applaud the efforts of both teams in a match which whilst mostly not a thing of beauty, apart from the sunset, has been entertaining and hard fought.  I think a draw is a fair result although home fans might not agree, and as I head for my car I hear a man muttering to himself about the ‘village team’ holding the team from the city (Wikipedia tells us that in 2011 Barking had a population of 59,011) as if the moral victory belongs to Little Oakley.  Perhaps it does, but even if it doesn’t it’s been a lovely afternoon out.