Colchester United 2 Salford City 1

Although I do want to see Col U play Salford City, it is against my will that I am driving to the Colchester Park and Ride car park because, scandalously, there is no public transport to the out in the middle of nowhere Community Stadium, and the one bus service (Shuttle S1) that is within a twenty minute walk might require leaving before the end of the match to get back to the railway station in time for the last train home.  When Col U first moved from lovely, ramshackle Layer Road to remote, windswept, Cuckoo Farm there were buses laid on from all points of the compass and from across the road to the Bricklayers Arms, a five-minute walk from the railway station.  Despite a lot of talk about being green and saving the planet, no one really cares do they? I’d advise everyone to stop having children now because we’re surely condemning them to a horrible future and probably a lingering death.

But what the heck, ‘tis the eve of the eve of Christmas Eve and Col U are about to play Salford City, the only current members of the Football League that I haven’t seen at some time or other. As I tell Gary, who I had arranged to meet in the Park & Ride car park, I’ve not been to what I still like to call “Layer Road” since October last year, when Col U played Harrogate Town, another Football League club I hadn’t previously seen play.  The Colchester Park and Ride car park is a bleak, desolate place and Gary and I walk as swiftly as we can along the barely lit path towards the bridge over the A12.  The lighting either side of the path is phenomenally ineffective, illuminating nothing more than a tiny circle around each light and casting no light whatsoever over the path itself, it’s so useless it could have been designed by any or all the UK’s last five Tory Prime Ministers.

The Community Stadium floodlights shine like a beacon along with the neon signs of the nearby McDonald’s and like moths around a flame Colcestrians are drawn to both.  Gary and I head for the turnstiles, and I hand him my mobile phone on which there is an e-mail with a ticket and QR code. Waving the phone about in front of something works, and Gary is in; he hands the phone back to me as the turnstile clicks. The e-mail says I would be sent two e-mails, but only one ever arrived.  However, it doesn’t matter, there is a second ticket and I wave it about and a green light comes on, I’m in too. Before heading for our seats I pause to collect a free programme for each of us from three neat piles, a woman eyes me suspiciously as if I’m about to set fire to them or steal hers.   Despite my misgivings about the location of this football ground and its accessibility, the free programme is a sign of true civilisation, it’s like being in France.

“The teams are in the tunnel” announces the electronic scoreboard, as if this might be an exciting development. “Make some noise” entreats the stadium announcer and from the loudspeakers up in the eaves comes the sound of the splendid “Post horn galop”, which Wikipedia tells us was composed in 1844 by German cornet player Hermann Koenig. Flags are waved in the South Stand and a drum beats to chants of Ole, Ole, Ole, sung in a style that sounds to my admittedly, slightly blocked up ears, like Olde English folk music.  The evening is off to a good start. 

With the teams lined up it is Col U who get first go with the ball, which they are hoping to put in the goal at the far end of the ground which backs picturesquely onto the A12.  Salford are kitted out uninspiringly in all-black, as if they couldn’t be bothered to come up with an original away kit, which they don’t need tonight any way because Salford’s club colours are red and red. The latest incarnation of Col U’s kit is probably one of the worst, with the normally blue stripes of the shirts faded to a washed out grey like they’ve been put on too hot a wash.  The pale green goalkeeper’s kit looks similarly carelessly laundered.  From their kits alone it’s easy to see why Col U are languishing in 22nd place in the twenty-four team fourth division and Salford are 20th

A couple of elderly latecomers arrive and we have to stand to let them past.  One brandishes a plastic bag “Been Christmas shopping have we?” I ask, insolently, implying that’s why I have been inconvenienced. Four minutes gone and Salford win the game’s first corner.  The drums are still beating. The scoreboard tells us that tonight’s match is sponsored by the Colchester and East Essex Cricket Club. The first player who has come to my notice is the Col U number 7, a small bloke with floppy hair who seems to fall over a lot. I don’t think he’s diving, he’s just little and not very steady on his legs when a big northerner comes up behind him.  “Too easy, too easy” exclaims the bloke behind me as Salford string two passes together and threaten to undo the Col U defence; a timely tackle saves the day.  An empty crisp packet blows across the pitch and I notice a possible redeeming feature of Col U’s kit, hooped socks. “ If only we had a target man” says the bloke behind me longingly, adding an unexpected frisson of homo-eroticism to the evening.

After fifteen minutes we witness the first shot on target, the Salford number seven is guilty however of failing to place it anywhere either side of the Col U goalkeeper who promptly catches it without having to move.  Two minutes later and referee, the suspiciously neat Mr Finnie, airs his yellow card for the first time, his victim being Col U’s Arthur Read, a man who in my opinion has the best name of anyone on the pitch; it’s as if he has travelled to us through time and he makes me think of Arthur Seaton in Alan Sillitoe’s novel ‘Saturday Night and Sunday Morning’. Arthur Seaton would definitely have been first into the book too.

Salford win a free-kick and tension mounts as we wait for it to be taken, but we needn’t have worried as once again it goes straight to the goalkeeper.  There follows warm applause, not because of good play, but merely relief.  Arthur Read has a shot and earns a corner. “Well done lino” says a voice bizarrely as Col U quickly win another corner. “Where’s Tom Eastman when you need him?” asks the bloke behind me. “Enjoying life at Dagenham” says the bloke next to him, suggesting another side to Dagenham  I hadn’t previously imagined.  This a strange game, neither side is very good,  but they are both trying to play decent football and they are evenly matched, which between the poor passes and lack of a plan makes for quite an absorbing encounter.  Col U’s Connor Hall is booked for possibly the least subtle shove off the ball of an opposition player I have ever seen; is this what being ‘an honest professional’ means I wonder?

The game rolls on towards half-time and Salford create the best chance so far as a clever series of no more than two passes puts McAleny through with just the goalkeeper to beat, but he doesn’t. Salford earn their first booking, but only after Mr Finnie walks back and forth a bit as if forensically examining the scene of the foul, whilst also possibly listening to the advice of the home crowd.  Col U win another corner; the Salford goalkeeper pats the ball down in a sudden panic and somebody clears it or deflects it high over the goal, possibly Curtis Tilt, whose surname is ideal in a match where action in the penalty area resembles that on a pinball table.

Three minutes remain until half-time when a run down the wing, a low cross, and a half-hearted, indecisive looking nudge-on precede the ball running to Joe Taylor and he shoots with ease past the Salford goalkeeper. Col U lead 1-0 and the final three minutes of the half plus minute of added on time are much more exciting as both teams decide to get a bit of a sweat up before half-time.

With the half-time whistle, Gary and I opt for a change of scenery and retreat beneath the stand, for no reason in particular.  I ask Gary if he’d like anything from the catering facilities, but he’s not keen, and nor am I. Fizzy beer and fatty snacks are not enticing and it’s not a particularly cold evening, so hot drinks aren’t needed either. We stand, and talk, and reminisce about Friday evenings at Layer Road in the dim and distant past of Roy McDonagh and Tony Adcock and the Barside.  I ask him if he’s ever been to any of the events that are held up here, such as the comedy nights. “I’ve been to Slimming World” he says.

We time our return to our seats to perfection and as we sit down the teams reappear on the pitch.   The game is now wonderfully scrappy. Col U’s number seven seems to fall over even more than he did in the first half.  We both agree that the far end of the ground is somewhat dingy and it’s not always easy to follow the path of the ball even though it is bright yellow.  The scrappiness of the game matches the acoustics of the stadium, hollow shouts and guttural moans echoing off the steel roof, plastic seats, concrete and empty spaces.  It might not sound it, but it’s pretty enjoyable, this is what fourth division football is all about, especially when the teams in twenty-second and twentieth positions meet.

Col U make a double substitution; not to be out done so do Salford, for whom Matty Lund replaces Liam Humbles. Lean, 33-year old Lund is described on Wikipedia as a “real good passer of the ball” and he cuts a dash with his grey hair, like a fourth division Zinedine Zidane.  Col U earn a corner after a decent shot from the exotic sounding Jayden Fevrier and then a foul by a Salford player provokes chants of “You dirty Northern bastard”  from the South Stand, and my evening is almost complete. 

More substitutions follow for Col U with about twenty minutes still left to enjoy and endure. Goalscorer Taylor is replaced by John Akinde, an enormous man with no hair who stirs memories of former Wycombe Wanderer Ade Akinbiyi, and is so popular with the crowd that he only has to boot the ball off the pitch for people to cheer. Col U have been the better team in the second half without making the chances to prove it,  but full-time is approaching and the anxiety of holding  onto the win elicits chants of “Come on Col U, Come on Col U”.  An eighty seventh minute Curtis Tilt cross and a powerful header over the cross-bar by Matt Smith don’t help, but then unexpectedly Akinde delivers a precise through ball, Chay Cooper is away beyond the Salford defence and passes the ball beyond Cairns the Salford ‘keeper.  Col U lead 2-0 and if anyone wants to leave early for that stupidly early last bus, they probably can.

But the modern game produces things like six minutes of added on time, even in the fourth division and within a minute Salford are back in the game as McAleny turns and produces an instant shot into the top corner of the Col U goal from over 20 metres out.  It’s a spectacular goal, the sort that people prone to exaggeration might say was worth the entrance money alone. The remaining minutes are tense.  Akinde is the fifth and final Col U player to be booked by the overly neat Mr Finnie and a final substitution of Will Greenidge for Fevrier is made. “Fuck off Greenidge” shouts a committed fan, and one of the possible reasons why Col U are struggling becomes apparent.  But the final minutes are played out and all that happens is that I notice the Salford number three has the name John on the back of his shirt, I wonder for a moment if he is a Brazilian like Fred and  Oscar, but the back of the programme tells me he is Welsh, and his first name is Declan, which oddly sounds Irish.

The final whistle brings a rare victory for Col U and applause from the crowd. As we head back to our cars I confess to Gary that I quite enjoyed the match and I think he did too. “But was it worth £21.00?” I ask him. “No” says Gary without hesitation and in the context of what we used to pay to see at Layer Road forty years ago I don’t suppose it was. 

AS St Etienne 2 Stade Rennais 2

Ever since 4th March 1981, when Ipswich Town produced what is probably the club’s greatest ever performance, winning 4-1 in St Etienne, I have wanted to see a game at the Stade Geoffroy-Guichard; it would be a pilgrimage to the scene of Ipswich Town’s finest hour. St Etienne is famous for its fanatical supporters and seeing and hearing them on the television since just added to the draw of the Stade Geoffroy-Guichard.
Today, thirty-six and a half years on I have stopped off on my way back from the south of France. Our hotel is close to the centre of town opposite the wonderful brick and metal-framed St Etienne-Châteaucreux railway station.

From there it is 1.40 euro tram ride on Ligne 1 to the Stade Geoffroy-Guichard. It is a little after one o’clock and there are several green-shirted St Etienne supporters on the modern, green tramOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA which glides through narrow central streets into broad squares of fountains, trees and majestic buildings. Why are French provincial cities so much more attractive and inviting than our own? St Etienne isn’t even that big, with a population of the town itself being about 150,000; vistas of the green hills outside the town are visible along some city streets. It’s an industrial town built up on coal mines and manufacturing like Sunderland or Salford but that’s where the comparison ends.
At the tram stop on Rue Bergsson, conveniently named Stade Geoffroy-Guichard, we alight and make the walk along Boulevard Roger Rocher towards the corner of the stadium which looms in the distance like a sleek grey box. We approach through car parking shaded by plane trees and past stalls selling club shirts, food and beer. There are several approaches to the stadium each with its own collection of food stalls.

People stand about in the sunshine, talking, eating, drinking, being French. I buy a hot dog for 3 euros, it’s one of those where the frankfurter is slotted into a hole in the centre of a baguette; I have mustard with it.
A man gives out 24 page, A4 sized, colour programmes named “100% St Etienne”, they are absolutely free; there are more advertisements for restaurants (eight) within its pages than for any other type of business. The club shop is close by the stadium and I take a look inside; it’s very, very big and very busy with a huge range of St Etienne branded goods which includes watering cans, locally brewed beer in 33cl and what look like 3 litre bottles, and wine.

Last year the club celebrated the fortieth anniversary of its one European Cup Final appearance, when the team containing Jacques Santini and Dominic Rocheteau lost in Glasgow by a single goal to the Bayern Munich of Beckenbauer, Sepp Maier, Gerd Muller and Uli Hoeness; a book commemorating the event is on sale for 25 euros; I don’t buy it.
Back outside I join a short queue through one of the many automated turnstiles and after a cursory patting down by a very smiley gentleman I enter the ‘Chaudron’ (Cauldron) as it is known. Our seats are way, way, way up in the stand and the succession of flights of stairs seems to go on and on forever. Eventually I find my seat in the very back row of the third tier. The view is spectacular, but it’s a long way from the pitch and a massive steel girder obscures any view of a good half of the stand at the far end of the ground, although that’s okay if you’re just here to look at the football and not the architecture.37430129191_f59c952158_o But even with an interrupted view, it is a mightily impressive stadium; fundamentally it is a traditional arrangement of four individual stands around the pitch, but they have been unified by the placing of a massive steel box over the top of them with irregularly shaped cut outs in the faces of the box. It is a simple idea and it works brilliantly, creating an imposing building, the outside of which doesn’t give a clue as to what the inside is like; it could easily be a factory viewed from the outside, which is wholly appropriate for St Etienne. The retention of the traditional four stands on each side of pitch successfully avoids the risk of this being a bland, anonymous bowl of a stadium.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.


The Stade Geoffroy-Guichard is a stage and the supporters behind each goal are every bit as much performers as the players. Already there are thousands inside the stadium and from high up at the back of the stand I look down upon those still yet to enter. Across the open space below me a crocodile of fans stride towards the turnstiles; they seem to be all part of a single group. The ultras beneath us in the stand two tiers below sing “Na na na na, Na na na na, Hey Hey Hey, St Etienne”; very 1970’s. The teams will soon be on the pitch but there is a strange looking man with long silver hair in the centre circle, he is accompanied by four young women in short skirts or hot pants.

He has a radio microphone and he is going to sing. A truly bizarre couple of minutes ensues in which the silver haired man struts about, the women dance and everyone seems to have a great time joining in with a truly awful Eurovision style song that would have been considered a bit naff even forty years ago. I recall having seen a picture of a man with the fashion sense of Jimmy Savile in the club shop, but I had dismissed it as something I’d rather not know about. Well you would wouldn’t you?
Fortunately the teams now enter the field to great fanfare with banners and anthems and hullabaloo and the memory of the poor man’s Johnny Halliday is soon lost beneath more pleasant sensations as the game begins, St Etienne (les Verts) wearing their distinctive green shirts and socks with white shorts, whilst Rennes sport all-red. St Etienne start well and is it any wonder with a crowd of 31,000 roaring them on. It’s a warm day and at the far end of the stadium virtually a whole stand of ultras is shirtless.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA Below, the ultras are urged on and orchestrated by blokes with megaphones. At most French grounds I have been to there might be two blokes sharing one megaphone; today at one time I see as many as five each stood up high facing the supporters with his own megaphone. There seem to be parties going on down there with36760026263_953ec16ac1_o outbreaks of frenzied pogoing in the centre, but in general just expressing a great communal support for their team. The ultras at each end of the stadium call to one another in song, it’s like some sort of very noisy religious service and it’s haunting, beautiful even. But then, French is the language of song. A young bloke in the seat but one next to me clearly longs to be down amongst the ultras as he bawls and shouts fiercely and joins in with songs which turn into solos, because he is so far from the main congregation. Children turn round to look at him and his girlfriend seems quite proud. Much of the crowd noise is independent of events on the pitch, it just happens constantly, an avant garde soundtrack of incidental drums and chants. Nevertheless, the stream of sound wobbles from time to time as referee Monsieur Miguelgorry does something like booking Assane Dioussé after four minutes Kevin Theophile-Catherine after thirty-one and Saidy Janko three minutes later.
As all the bookings might suggest, it’s an entertaining game on the pitch as well as off, and St Etienne are giving us all something to shout about, but they haven’t scored and it’s nearly half-time. The Rennes players seem unable to stand up when a St Etienne player is near and this explains the bookings and, typically for cheating bastards, it is Rennes who score therefore. Les Verts’ Ola Selnaes is far too easily knocked off the ball just outside his own penalty area and Rennes’ Benjamin Bourigeaud insolently chips the ball over the wonderfully, stereotypically gallic goalkeeper Stephane Ruffier and into the net.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA Forty odd Rennes fans are filled with a belief that it was worth travelling the best part of 750 kilometres to be here.
The St Etienne supporters telepathically share their disappointment so they don’t have to stop urging their team on vocally. The game heads on into the four minutes time added on by Monsieur Miguelgorry because of all the recumbent Rennes players lying prone on the turf. Justice is served however as in the second minute of this additional time a corner to St Etienne is headed across goal by captain Loic Perrin and Gabriel Silva hooks a splendid, athletic volley into the roof of the Rennes net. The ultras surge to the front of the stand and we are all consumed in the extreme, noisy, joyfulness of the moment. It somehow feels like St Etienne have scored twice in one go.
Half-time comes and I look around a bit. I am impressed by the signs for the toilets which37316187401_916131cef9_o feature a very stylish, well dressed and attractive looking couple; after they’ve emptied their bladders I’d be happy to spend time with either of them.
The second half begins and the ultras sing something containing the words ‘Ally Ally O’ and it reminds me of Rita Tushingham and Dora Bryan in A Taste of Honey and a time when Britain made films as artful as the French. But my reverie is disturbed eight minutes in to the new half as a cross and a perceived shove sees another Rennes player in a crumpled mess and a penalty kick later Rennes lead 2-1 through Wahbi Khazri. Monsieur Miguelgarry bought it again. How we boo those Breton bastards and their superior acting skills. But life and football and the match carry on and St Etienne and their fans continue to excite and eventually their pressure pays off as the Stade Rennais goalkeeper Tomas Koubek appears to snatch at the ankles of Lois Diony and Jonathan Bamba equalises with another penalty kick. The noise of drums and chants doesn’t let up and although Stephane Ruffier has to make a brilliant diving reaction save, pushing the ball away off a post, St Etienne continue to dominate. With less than ten minutes to go Kevin Monnet-Paquet’s header is clawed away from the top corner by Tomas Koubek sailing across his goal like a runaway kite in shorts and football shirt. In the final minute Monsieur Miguelgarry cements his place in the hearts of the St Etienne fans as a grosse merde as he sends off Gabriel Silva whilst another Oscar deserving Breton lies prostrate on the grass.
The game ends in a draw and it has been bloody marvellous, even though I had wanted St Etienne to win. I have fulfilled my wish to see St Etienne play a match at Stade Geoffroy-Guichard and now I can’t wait to come back and see another one. This was a real football match, better than anything I have ever witnessed in England; the football wasn’t of the highest quality, although good enough, and these aren’t the world’s best players, but the supporters are the very, very best. I will return. Allez les Verts!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.