Osasuna

According to the Chargemap app on my mobile phone, the 495 kilometre trip from my house to Stade Oceane in Le Havre, home of Ligue 1 football team Havre AC, would currently take seven hours and twenty-five minutes including two stops totalling fifty minutes to re-charge my planet saving Citroen e-C4. This is a trip I made only last month and is one I would recommend, provided you have the cash to pay for the motorway tolls and the fare for le shuttle. Le Havre is a fascinating port city and on account of its being re-built in concrete by Auguste Perret after the RAF flattened it, it is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Disappointingly however, Havre AC were not at home when I visited last month, so I made do with a trip to the Museum of Modern Art to see Ai Wei Wei’s Lego interpretation of Monet’s Water Lillies, several beers in the excellent bars of le brasserie L’Havrais biere, and wandering amongst some of my favourite buildings. But the world and time are nothing if not round and a month later Havre AC have come to see me, playing a friendly versus Ipswich Town at Portman Road.

Unusually, my wife Paulene is coming to the match tonight, attracted by the promise of French footballers, although having grown up in Portsmouth she was, and as far as I know still is, always wary of French sailors. Our journey this evening is by planet saving Citroen e-C4 and we pick-up Gary on the way before parking very conveniently just around the corner from the Arb’. Gary is sporting the very latest replica Ipswich Town away shirt this evening, and gets the drinks in first; a pint of Estrella for him, a small glass of dry rose for Paulene and a pint of Nethergate Stour Valley for me. A woman in the bar compliments Paulene on her earrings before we retire to the garden and a table in the shade to talk of relatives and friends and other stuff, and Gary is impressed by my Havre AC T-shirt. In due course, I buy another round of drinks the same as before, but I opt for a pint of the weaker Nethergate Voyager this time and am disappointed that it tastes a little like the pipes have been cleaned but not rinsed very well afterwards, as in fact did the Stour Valley.

It’s about twenty past seven when we head for Portman Road and thankfully an easy downhill walk, because once again it is a very, very warm evening. There are long queues for the Cobbold stand in Portman Road, but what I notice first is that there are no programmes on sale again, which vexes me greatly; even in the days of Marcus Evans there were always programmes for pre-season friendlies, weren’t there? But my spirits lift slightly when I find there are no queues for the Sir Alf Ramsey stand and this gives me time to photograph Paulene with Town mascots Bluey and Crazee who are hanging around in the car park with a small man in spectacles. I tell Bluey and Crazee that Paulene has been photographed with an army of mascots, including Bouba the elephant in Monaco, Ri-Ri the Canary in Nantes, Auguste the lion in Reims, Merlux the Hake in Lorient, Erminig the ermine in Rennes, a very dodgy, moth-eaten looking Leopard in Rouen, but sadly not Sali the salamander in Le Havre. Bluey and Crazee unfortunately do not reply, and I commiserate with them that they do not speak.

Having been checked for scrap metal and explosives, I am ushered by a lady steward towards turnstile 61, but I tell her that I have to use turnstile 62, although I don’t know really know why and tonight’s match is only a pre-season friendly. “You never know” she says, and I think to myself “You never know what?” but like Bluey and Crazee I can’t say it. After venting excess spent Stour Valley and Voyager I meet up again with Paulene and Gary at our seats, which until we sit on them are an oasis of blue plastic amongst a sea of parents and children, many in last season’s replica kits. None of them are at all familiar and I look in vain for Pat from Clacton, Fiona, ever-present Phil who never misses a game, his son Elwood and the man from Stowmarket (Paul). I feel rather uncomfortable, like a walrus stranded amongst roosting penguins on a stoney beach somewhere in the South Atlantic. They seem to be giving off a lot of heat too because it is incredibly warm.

Eventually, the football begins with Town in their natural blue and white getting first go with the ball and kicking it towards the goal just off to our right. Havre are most disappointingly in all black rather than their signature pale blue and dark blue halved shirts and dark blue shorts, although a look on their website suggests they have no away kit, at least, perhaps not one they think anyone would want to purchase a replica of. Havre don’t know it, but they are of course kicking towards Cumberland Towers, a concrete building which is unlikely to earn Ipswich UNESCO World Heritage site status, but which I like because it looks a bit like a very big match box stood on its end.

In terms of football, the first half is awful, but this is at least consistent with most pre-season games. We amuse ourselves by working out which players are which on both sides. Gary asks who Mendel is and is more amused than he should be when I tell him that he is Mendelssohn’s father. This is probably the highlight of the half but only if I ignore the fact that Town’s new Japanese signing Daizen Maeda looks about sixty-five and nearly ready for his pension, but this is solely due to the strange silvery colour of his hair. Otherwise, all I recall are the numerous seagulls swooping overhead (have Le Havre brought their own?) and that Havre have a player whose surname is Pembele, which because it rhymes Dembele sets me off thinking about an imaginary team whose names all sound a bit like those of other, far superior players, like Zinedine Sedan, Bobby Carlton or Lionel Nessi.

The welcome relief of half-time is spent talking to Harrison, who Gary has never met before, although Paulene has. Harrison’s grandfather Ray is watching the match from his Heath Road hospital bed, from where he at least might have access to drugs. I will visit Ray a day or two later and he will tell me that he missed the first fifteen minutes because Town TV is not very good. I reassure him that in fact he missed absolutely nothing at all.

The match resumes at nine minutes to nine, predictably with a new Ipswich team. As happened in last week’s pre-season game versus Osasuna the more or less wholesale substitution of the team seems to do the trick and thirteen minutes later a Town goal is being celebrated as Chuba Akpom directs a free header into the Havre net after some startlingly bad defending from the Norman team and Town lead one-nil. On the touchline, the seldom smiling Havre manager Didier Digard, who incidentally played three games on loan for last week’s opponents Osasuna about ten years ago, is grim faced, looking as if he’s already deciding who to hit first when they all get back in the dressing room in half an hour’s time. Havre soon begun substitutions of their own, bringing on the players with the evening’s two most pleasurable surnames, Yanis Zouaoui and Hakim Dongopandji.

Twenty minutes of the second half have upped and left, and Jack Clarke has an early tilt at the worst shot of the season award as he shoots spectacularly wide and high. A minute later George Hirst is brought on to see if he can do better. Twelve minutes later, Havre produce what might be their only shot of the game, from substitute wide player Enzo Koffi, and the waning of interest in the stands begins to manifest itself with depressing calls of “Blue Army” from both adult males and small children. It’s something that doesn’t happen during ‘proper’ games and is another compelling argument for not attending pre-season friendlies.

The match nears its uninteresting conclusion and over the public address system we are told that collectively we number 6,669. It’s probably close to a capacity crowd for the limited areas of the stadium that are open, but I remain disappointed that I have not seen or heard a single French person in the crowd this evening, or smelled a Gauloise or even a faint whiff of garlic. I hope that we get to see RC Lens, Paris St Germain or Olympique Marseille at Portman Road before too long.

The Google AI overview on the interweb tells us that Pamplona is the historic capital of the Navarre region in northern Spain and that “…it balances a vibrant modern lifestyle with ancient stone walls, green parks, and lively culinary traditions”. The ensuing Wikipedia entry goes on to tell us that Pamplona also has two football teams, one of which is CA Osasuna (Club Atletico Osasuna) who play in La Liga and that Osasuna means ‘health’ in the Basque language.

Combining this information I think firstly that balancing anything with ancient stone walls is quite a feat and that Pamplona must therefore be quite some place, and secondly the prospect of catching a glimpse of a vibrant modern lifestyle and lively culinary tradition by attending a football match is one I could not pass up. As luck would have it, tonight, Ipswich Town’s first pre-season friendly of 2026 is against CA Osasuna. In my younger days I lapped up pre-season friendlies like a thirsty kitten confronted with numerous saucers of milk and I was all in favour of adding stars to the Town shirts to commemorate the Willhire Cup wins of 1979 and 1980. Forty-five years on, life and loves have taken their toll and now I feel affronted to be asked to cough up my de-valued cash to watch a glorified training exercise but I am nevertheless unable to resist matches against foreign opposition as I strive to relive those European glory nights and compensate for the disaster that is Brexit.

The out in the middle of nowhere stadium near Colchester is just a 12km drive in our planet saving Citroen e-C4 down the A12 for me and my wife Paulene, and after queuing to wait for people to tap their car number plates onto a screen and ‘contactlessly’ pay £3 at the nearby Park & Ride facility, we do the same and are soon cutting our way through the evening heat, past the vicious barbs of rambling brambles that encroach over the footpath along Boxted Road and the approach to the home of Colchester United, where tonight’s friendly fixture will take place.

Access to our seats in the west Stand is via turnstile T3 and is governed by the deeply unsatisfying process of twice placing my mobile telephone up against a small glass window where once upon a time a turnstile operator might have wished me a cheery “enjoy the match” as they ripped a ticket from its stub. There’s still a good twenty-five minutes until the football is due to begin and therefore, whilst Paulene experiences the toilet facilities, I splash out on a bottle of water (£2.25) from the distinctly not at all busy refreshment kiosk beneath the stand, where two probable sixth formers smile willingly, happy to make contact with a real, fleshy human face, one that’s not an image on a mobile telephone screen.

Disappointingly, there is no programme for tonight’s fixture, so with nothing to read we seek our entertainment in the arrival of fellow supporters; at least two of whom are quite aged and only clamber up the steps of the stand with the aid of sticks and a helpful steward. A little curiously, in the seats in front of us a group of men and boys wear Witham Town shirts. Without a programme we have no clue as to the identity of the Osasuna players or even some of the Town players, who I will admit to not recognising. The stadium announcer fails to help us identify any of the players as the public address system turns out to be feeble and easily drowned out by the sound of people talking. It doesn’t help that the announcer also sounds either like he’s recovering from laryngitis or just has the sort of voice best suited to a life of religious devotion in a Cistercian monastery.

When the game begins, it is Ipswich who get first go with the ball, which they direct towards Colchester city centre, its castle and its surviving heaps of Romano-British rubble. Ipswich are as ever in blue and white. Osasuna meanwhile are kicking towards the A12 and Park and Ride car park; they wear red shirts and blue shorts, like an Iberian Aldershot Town. Back in a football stadium for the first time in over two months, I had almost forgotten how annoying I find my fellow human beings with their silly comments and conversation. “Why do people applaud?” asks Paulene earnestly as a hopeful cross from Town’s number 40 (recent signing Abdul Fatawu) sails harmlessly beyond the Osasuna far post and is greeted with a bout of clapping. “If it’s not a goal, then it’s nothing” she says. I tell her it’s because otherwise they might kill themselves due to loss of hope.

Four minutes have passed. Leif Davis is beaten on the left flank and a cross, a shot, a save from Alex Palmer and a follow up shot later and the ball is in the Town net. No one who doesn’t speak Spanish has any inkling as to the identity of the goalscorer. The sense of unexpected loss is palpable amongst the ‘home’ crowd but whilst some probably head off to graffiti the toilets, most just sit glumly, although when Fatawu jumps high to prevent an overhit cross field ball going out for a throw, the crowd cheer up a bit and applaud; the man in the seat behind me says “I like this bloke already”.

Fatawu is a hero again after eight minutes when an Osasuna player tries to relieve him of his shirt and is booked by the anonymous referee. “That wasn’t even subtle” snorts the bloke behind me. Amusingly, to me, Dara O’Shea is rightly booked for the same thing moments later provoking predictable complaints from Town supporters. Then Fatuwu gets behind the Osasuna defence, only to pick out the head of an Osasuna defender with his cross. The game proceeds uninterestingly, but for wondering who the Osasuna players actually are. Town’s first shot on goal arrives after twenty minutes courtesy of Nunez, who then has another shot three minutes later, earning the game’s first corner as a result. More exciting however is the ‘hydration break’ two minutes after that, which draws boos from Town fans who would probably complain that “they never had drinks breaks in my day” and possibly believe that Colchester United are now selling premium priced advertising on their streaming service.

The remainder of the half drifts away with Alex Palmer palming away a couple of shots, both teams trading lame corner kicks and a man in the seat next but one to Paulene breaking open a cellophane package containing a lurid green coil of something with the consistency of mozzarella cheese, from which he proceeds to break pieces off and give to the girl next to him; he eats the rest. Three minutes of added on time are announced because that was the length of the unpopular hydration break.

We stay in our seats for half-time as daylight fades into dusk and the sky explores deepening shades of blue. The half-time entertainment consists of the scoreboard advertising forthcoming attractions at “Layer Road” including an under 12’s disco and comedy nights, although Colchester United mostly now play on Saturday afternoons.

The football resumes at ten to nine with old hands Wes Burns and Chuba Akpom appearing in place of new boys Emersonn and Abdul Fatawu and the stadium announcer embarrassingly letting us know the substitutes’ identities as if they were challengers for a World Heavyweight boxing bout. For a full couple of minutes Ipswich display what looks like attacking intent and after eight minutes Akpom stretches for a deep hopeful cross and manages to direct the ball over or around the mystery Osasuma goalkeeper and into the goal. The goalkeeper looks somewhat disappointed. I tell Paulene I hadn’t expected to see an equaliser.

After the goal, a second hydration break follows unexpectedly in the sixtieth minute, but it transpires that it’s just an excuse to swap about the remainder of the Town team. Several fresh Town players appear, and I have no idea who they are, but it seems neither does the announcer, who maintains radio silence. I feign disgust, and referencing the lack of a programme or audible announcements speak to Paulene of an “utter shambles”, but in truth it’s just my way of enjoying the evening,

Once the game has re-started Paulene admits to boredom and a dislike of the people behind based on the sound of their voices. Perhaps annoyed by the growing pointlessness of the football Paulene goes on to comment that there are a lot of funny looking people here and we wonder whether they are from Ipswich or Colchester, or both. I admit that Ipswich is not renowned for its beautiful people, but where is? The bloke behind us starts sneezing loudly whilst several nearby children have started to repeatedly shout “Blue Army” in the shrill way that only children can. This then raises the question of why the Colchester United banner at the back of the stand behind one of the goals reads ‘Blue White Army’ and not ‘Blue and White Army’, and so the legend of the lost ampersands of Colchester edges out the football in terms of interest.

About twenty-five minutes remain to be endured and a Ben Johnson cross wins another Town corner. “I’m liking Chuba more than I thought I would” says the bloke behind me, who had previously unexpectedly liked Abdul Fatawu; he would seem to have a lot of love to give. The sands of time continue to run out but it’s only five minutes later when I look to the clock on the scoreboard again and wish they could run a bit faster. I realise that I’ve kicked over my bottle of water and most of the remaining contents have dribbled down the steps of the stand, and in a drought too. The two teams trade corner kicks and George Hirst replaces Chuba Akpom, a change which unlike the previous mass -substitution is unexpectedly announced over the public address system, and with incongruous enthusiasm.

Eight long minutes of normal time remain; some people are already leaving, their evenings and perhaps their lives defined by their desire not to queue when leaving the car park. Osasuna win a corner. The corner is taken and the ball diverted to the outside of the penalty area where some bloke in Aldershot Town kit lashes it into the top right corner of the Town goal via the underside of the cross bar. Osasuna lead 2-1 and what will prove to be the winning goal, if not worth the entry money on its own, has certainly been the only thing worth paying to see.

All that remains is for the stadium announcer to tell us that we numbered 4,685 before people started to leave early, and for three minutes of added time to be aimlessly endured. The final whistle is a gentle release, but at least I can now say I have seen Club Atletico Osasuna play, if anyone asks and I’m looking forward to the friendly versus Havre AC on Tuesday night already.