The small town of Carnac on the coast of Brittany is famed for its sprawling, ritual landscape of neolithic, megalithic alignments, menhirs and dolmens, but less so for its football clubs. It is unlikely therefore that many people outside the local football fraternity of the Morbihan departement (County), noticed the merger in 2023 of two or maybe three local clubs to create what its name suggests is a giant ritualistic rock of a football club, FC Megalithes, which possibly prefers to kick-off games in the direction of the mid-winter sunrise.
The website for the French equivalent of the local County Football Association helpfully lists associated clubs and their fixtures and having arrived in Carnac the day before and settled in, my wife Paulene and I have dusted off our autumn almanac and are seeking entertainment on what is a sunny September Sunday afternoon. The website tells us that FC Megalithes are at home to Riantec OC, playing their second league match of the season in the Ligue Bretagne de Football, District Morbihan, District 1 Poule B. If Ligue 1, where the likes of Paris St Germain and Olympique Marseille hang out is level one of French football, we think this is about level ten of may be twelve or thirteen. Riantec is a village a bit more than 30 kilometres away near the much larger town of Lorient, albeit this side of the estuary of the River Blavet; Wikipedia tells us that in 2017 Riantec had a population of about 5,600.
The football association website states that kick off is at 3.30 pm, and believing the match will be played at the main sports ground in Carnac, we set off at about ten to three from our ‘hut’ in a nearby camp site to make the 3.3 kilometre journey in our planet saving electric Citroen eC4. As is often the case with local municipal sports grounds in France, there is plenty of free parking, but worryingly perhaps, as we roll up almost all of it is unoccupied, and walking through the stone gateway of the Stade it is evident that there is no one else here except some youths playing an impromptu game of ‘three and in’ behind the albeit impressive, but lonely looking and very empty main stand. The pitch is freshly marked out, but there aren’t even any goals up. Clearly in the wrong place, we consult the interweb again and discover, courtesy of our very own administrative error, that we should be at Parc des Sports Kermouroux, about 7 kilometres away in St Philibert.
It is an easy trip across town to St Philibert, despite some 30 kilometre per hour maximum speed zones and a couple of red lights, and whilst we arrive after three-thirty we can see from the road outside that the players are only just lining up to shake hands and accept the applause of a crowd of what must be about a hundred people. As we step through a side gate, we can even hear some Ultra-style chanting, although that seems to be from the players of the B team whose match had kicked off at one-thirty and has since ended.
The Parc des Sports Kermouroux has no stands or floodlights, just a neat white rail all around the pitch, a couple of dugouts and a clubhouse. The site is surrounded by houses, but on the far side of the pitch is also a playground and what looks like judiciously mowed, planted wildlife area. The majority of the crowd lean on the rail in front of the clubhouse, inside which a couple of middle-aged women are doing a good trade in beer. Wine and coffee are also available.



We miss the actual kick off, or coupe d’envoi as the French call it, as we find a decent spot against the rail, but we are paying attention when at eighteen minutes to four the Megalithes’ number nine bustles his way through the Riantec defence, checks and turns a couple of times and then boots the ball beyond the Riantec goalkeeper and into the goal. Two minutes later he repeats the dose, running beyond the back four and a sluggish linesman to score from about six yards out. The linesman doesn’t really seem to have grasped what his role is yet, but to be fair to him it does look like he didn’t expect to be linesman when he turned up, as he is wearing a day-glo yellow tabard rather than the standard officials’ uniform that the referee and the other linesman are wearing. As for the teams and their apparel, Megalithes are smart all in navy blue with white trim, whilst Riantec are less so in a messy looking combination of baggy white shirts and with streaks on, and black shorts.
After two goals in the first five minutes, the arrival of the first corner of the match at seven minutes to four leaves everyone somewhat non-plussed. This is even more the case when a minute later a punt forward for Riantec is met with another hopeful punt-cum-shot from their number ten and the ball sails into the top corner of the Megalithes’ net to make the score 2-1, against the run of play. Although the goal adds to the excitement and sense of jeopardy, which I believe is what football matches are all about, I can’t help but feel a bit disappointed because Megalithes are by far the better team.
Megalithes continue to dominate the match and pass the ball well but seem unwilling to score again, although their number nine keeps threatening to nip behind the Riantec defence just as he did twice before, but he never quite manages to get his shot into the net. Without more goals to concentrate players’ minds on keeping up to date with the score, a combination of fouls and outlandish acting creeps into the game, with more than one player letting out blood curdling screams as he collapses to the ground as if the subject of some sort of unexpected, attempted human sacrifice.
The gnarled looking, but neatly coiffured, grey-haired referee is totally in control of the shenanigans, looking down deeply unimpressed at the writhing players, whilst politely but firmly dealing with the perpetrators of genuine fouls. “S’il-vous plait Monsieur” he says politely but wearily as he beckons over the perpetrator of a foul to instruct him as to his future conduct. In the first instance Rianec’s number eight is merely spoken to, but then Carnac’s number ten, a lithe youth with curly hair a la Adrien Rabiot, is booked after being summoned with the ominous words “Numero dix, s’il vous plait”
Half-time comes as a relief after the frustration of FC Megalithes not scoring the goals they deserve and all that falling about and screaming. I head for the club house as the players make for the dressing rooms and am quickly acquiring two cups of coffee (one euro each), which are served from a filter coffee machine; none of your instant muck here. Paulene and I find a better position by the rail as almost everyone else heads indoors for more beer, and we nick their ‘spots’.
It is nineteen minutes to four when play resumes and within moments Megalithes number nine is centring a low cross, which number three easily and mournfully taps wide of the goal having arrived in position perfectly on time and completely unseen by the opposition. The second half is twelve minutes old when Megalithes’ number nine elicits a fine save from the Riantec ‘keeper at the expense of a corner and then the scenario repeats itself. Megalithes continue to dominate the second half as they had the first and the mystery of how they fail to score more goals continues every bit as mysteriously as the question of why the neolithic locals erected all these megaliths in the first place.



It is a quarter past five when Riantec win a corner and I can’t help thinking to myself that this is the first corner the away team has won, and it has taken them almost an hour and a quarter to do so. Normal service is resumed however just two minutes later as Megalithes’ number twelve beats the offside ‘trap’, takes the ball around the Riantec goalkeeper and then places it precisely into the side netting of the goal. A minute later Megalithes number two, a beautifully skilful player, repeats the process, taking the ball around the goalkeeper, but doing so without the necessary speed to get the ball into the goal before two defenders get back and combine to clear the goal bound ball.
Finally, and fittingly, in the final minute of the game, Megalithes place the ball in the Riantec goal to make the score justifiably, although sadly only temporarily 3-1, as almost inevitably the linesman raises his flag to declare it hors-jeu, offside, which it rather blatantly was.
The final whistle brings relief to both teams as the home side finally confirm their narrow win, and the away team gain respite from the footballing lesson they have been given. The sun has now begun to sink low in the sky and a cool breeze has spoiled what was an almost balmy autumn afternoon for a while. Pleasingly, the better team has won and whilst not winning by as many goals as they should have, a decent hour and a half’s entertainment has been provided by everyone involved. There is a palpable warmth and feeling of community amongst the crowd and as ever as we leave the ground and head happily for our Citroen to make the short drive back to Carnac, our experience of French amateur football has been a pleasant and uplifting one. Vive le Foot!


























